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I don't think they look "as cast". Just years worth of sitting on a shelf and/or perhaps a media blasting.

I have a set of Brad's door wood for a '32-34 RPU. It's top-notch work. Hopefully he can find someone of equal woodworking skill to take over his product line.

You need to use a '35 spindle.

Which specific brand of reproduction caps do you have? One of the manufacturers specifically states its caps won't work with the OE Ford wheels - only it's own reproduction wheels.

The banjo and axle housings are the same between V8 '32 and '33/34, but the torque tubes and driveshafts are different lengths with '32 being shorter. None ('32-34) are the same as '35 and up, which even vary between model groupings up to '48.

The lobes on tappet camshafts are tapered to cause the lifter to rotate in its bore - something you don't want to have occur with a roller lifter. This is to prevent the tappet face from wearing unevenly. A roller lobe will have a flat, non-tapered face. Lobes for tappet lifters are also not...

It will depend upon the charger. Which brand and model do you have? An email to its customer support may be able to provide you an answer.

To add further detail, the '33 and '34 commercial grilles are unique to the respective years. There are slight differences in stamped features in the areas where trim is applied to the shells surrounding the radiator cap. So, to reiterate: 1932 commercial = 1932 only, but can be substituted...

The '33-34 fenders have a small rectangular bump on the horizontal flange approximately aligned with the grill shell location. See photo linked below. The '32 fenders are smooth. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/img_5720-jpg.4876206/

Nick Smithberg might know. He got a lot (all?) of the Hilborn leftovers from Holley when they shut Hilborn down. https://www.smithbergracing.com/hilborn-injection-repair/

Yes, the yellow and black cover "Automotive Hardware and Trimming Supplies" book that covers years 1928-1938 lists the part numbers, although it doesn't provide the amount of offset. Good luck finding such pieces of hardware loose in the wild, though.

Corvettes don't use the thumb screw style clamps that the hot rodders want.

Seller lost money on that engine after fees are accounted for. Purchased it for $41.3k at the Mecum auction earlier this year. https://www.mecum.com/lots/1131944/ford-ardun-ohv-conversion-flathead-v-8/?aa_id=636667-0

Yeah, I snoozed and "losed". Hence the looking at the alternatives.

Does anyone know what the quality and accuracy is of the Brookville rubber-covered 1932 running boards? They look like they're probably pretty good, although I've never thoroughly inspected originals that are still in good shape. Photos credit: "hotrodhoodlum"

You could buy a "cheap" DuCoil and steal the rotor from it. Then fabricate (or 3D print) a bushing to adapt the keying feature. https://www.ebay.com/itm/365873290927

You need to use 59A gaskets whenever mixing and matching blocks and heads between the two variants. And the extra coolant hole needs to be plugged in the 8BA component.

I suspect it's probably a case of people needing rotors, finding the angled one somewhere (swap meet, parts catalog, internet listing, etc), and not realizing it's not the correct part. The two rotors - angled and straight - are very similar in appearance, with exception of the slight angle at...

I've never seen a Kong (or a DuCoil) with an angled rotor. They have all been the straight rotor. This includes my Kong and DuCoils. As you can see, your distributor would require one for a D keyed shaft. It looks like the DuCoils use the notched variant. You might be able to come up with a...

There are straight and angled rotors that look the same if someone isn't paying attention to the angle difference. They also have a common shaft keying so it's easy for one to get replaced for the other. You do need the straight rotor, though. They can be hard to find. You also need to pay...