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250 ft. Lbs. And back off until you can insert the cotter pin. Make sure the fine threads are clean and good.

I agree with the other guys. Worn guides and way to rich. It should have stunk when it was running too.

None of the stock flathead cams are performance oriented. Why not install a 3/4 cam and gain a few horsepower and a little more torque Since your engine is apart anyway?

Are the clutch and pressure plate in good shape and the right ones? If they are worn enought they may not allow the gearbox to shift smoothly.

What O'l Ron said. A stock flathead will have trouble swallowing that much gas and run rich. Really not worth the trouble unless you like changing fouled plugs alot.

It is quite possible it is the regulator. Brand new ones can be out of adjustment. Have it adjusted by a pro to be sure.

That is a later example of a Fenton. The early ones have the Fenton logo under the generator location. I have one on my 8BA and it works fine.

Re: 81’s tri power or dual 97’s I prefer 2 carbs . 3 carbs can be difficult to tune and will take some tinkering to make work right. You probably would only use 2 anyway most of the time with a progressive linkage. But...the 3 carbs look really cool.

I use 2 anodes. One in the radiator lower tank and one in a temp sender hole in one head. Can't be too careful.

You will probably end up finding a complete unit at a swap meet. I dont think anyone makes seperate parts.

I use Pertronix in all my cars. I've never had a problem. I also use copper Packard 440 plug wires. I do carry conventional points just in case.

It might be a little to rich. Does the exhaust smell rich at idle? Slightly too much ignition advance will also cause backfiring. The two things together will cause issues.

Flatheads use a fairly low spring rate. Unless you are racing, I'd buy a new set of stock springs. They are not expensive.

Backfiring through the carb can mean retarded timing. Check it out.

Except for that classic look, once you try a set of radials you won't go back to bias. They made my coupe drive so much better.

Keep at it. Its a bugger but it will go back on. Make sure only a couple threads are used on the first side. Try doing the other side first if you can't get it to reach.

Allen heads wont strip or round off. Even though its a low torque bolt, they can get cooked in there and cause problems getting them out. Either way use new hardware.

Replacing the starter post is a fairly simple job and its the best way to solve the problem. You want a solid connection at the starter That's reliable since its a heavy draw.

Use a stainless allen head. No washer.

I just drove through the Redding area last week on our way to the R.P.M. Nationals and the devistation in that area is hard to describe. I will say there are hundreds of men working in the woods there taking out slash, harvesting usable trees etc. And minimizing another fire as best they can...