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Thanks everyone for the info. Am mating a Mustang toploader to my 8BA and the adapter will need a clutch release shaft, was going to remove shaft from spare trans. I have but no need to do so now that I know I can get a new cross shaft.

How do I remove the clutch release shaft; the fork pin is peened over and I can't get to it? Does someone offer new clutch release shafts? If someone is making new ones then I won't have to bother with removal of old one.

John, didn't find out about the t/o bearings as I have to call back tomorrow as they want to be sure that we get the right p/p to match the t/o bearing; it was after closing when I called. Will let you know about Made in U.S.A. t/o's.

Just spoke to Scott FWC and says they have a new batch of early Ford pressure plates.

Thanks for responding; if I find Mustang clutch disc too thin what do I use for shim material under p/p arms? Bob

Am using 4 speed toploader with my flathead; will the 10" X 1 1/16" Mustang clutch disc be compatible with my early 10" Ford long style pressure plate and throwout bearing?

Thanks for responding John, will use the info. when I order the TOB. Bob

Can they also supply a Made in the U.S.A. throwout bearing?

Why do the early Fords have clutch"chatter?" My restored '36 had clutch chatter right from the git go; is it a design flaw?

Jack, where would I get a magnesium anode? Thanks, Bob

Thanks for answering guys.

If I have a 12V system do I abandon 12V regulator when converting to a 12V alternator that has a built in voltage regulator?

How do you recognize an electrolysis condition? I have a '36 with aluminum heads & copper head gaskets and I would like to be able to tell if electrolysis is present.

John, we had discussed this very problem and I failed to link what you pointed out to me as to how it would relate to my valve to head clearance. Last night in a very cold garage (excuse) I came up with a net lift of .361" when actually it is .353" as we discussed earlier. The .361" lift...

Bill, the top section of the valve on the seat I measured does sit above the deck; that explains it! Thanks for responding, Bob

Trev, I read that you must use a "smooth" spacer in one of my assembly books also. The book was written in collaboration with a Canadian machine shop that made custom smooth sleeves; I thought they were trying to sell me something as no one else mentioned it in their assembly books.

Offy heads with valve pockets .425" deep, compressed copper gasket .062" and net lift .361"; the math says I should have valve to head clearance of .126". When I clay I get .090". Have I left something out in my calculations? My valve pocket depth varies; should it be uniform all around or is...

I knew you guys would have the answer, thanks.

My first choice for a head gasket was the graphite type but piston to head clearance has caused me to use the thicker copper gasket. What can I do to minimize the effects of electrolysis associated with aluminum heads?

Thanks Jim, it is the one piece all rubber one; I'll close it up and move on. Bob