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The distributor you have on there looks like the 1942 "crab" type which is well suited in terms of advance curve and reliability, if you put on a Tubman condenser. It is by far the most popular distributor for that engine because of ease of connections, versus the helmet types. Since you are...

My Aunt Ibby had a '41 Ford Jeep that she used to get up logging trails in the mountains for hunting. She taught me how to drive in that Jeep but was it banned by my Mother after a near death experience sent me sailing across Route 33 West of Harrisonburg with a blown out rusty brake line...

Re: ‘34 lights/electrical mystery I presume you checked the fuses that came out were not blown? Check with an Ohm Meter?

My droopy door handle is due to worn square shaft and receiver in the latch mechanism. My fix is to always pull the handle up after I use it. There is enough friction that it stays in place, even after driving on a rough road. Could replace the handle with a better one, but the driver side...

Maybe if you switched the left and right mounts so that it leans towards the rear instead of towards the front?

Try logging out and back in again.

Admirable ambition. I look forward to a report of your findings.

Those cheap digital tachs can get confused unless you have some sort of supressor in your ignition cables. When I switched back from Pertronix to points and HP 404 wires the digital tach (not cheap) went flakey, as did my satelite radio. I put a one foot piece of spiral-wound ignition cable...

Well, if you were Rebel Without a Cause you would have been able to jump out of the car before it went over the cliff! In that movie the door handle pointed forward.

You would need a sensor of crank speed. Could be optical sensor looking at a white dot on the crank pulley, preferably aligned with TDC of cylinder #1. Then you would need a sensor of ignition voltage on cylinder #1. With the crank speed sensor as base and comparing to #1 firing, you could...

I love the range of torque and power of the 248f in my 284" 59A/B. 70# on the seat has proven to be plenty, but I never rev over 5,000, and rarely over 4,500. I just wind it up to 4,000+ for a few seconds every time I take it out, on the theory that will blow out the carbon. Probably a myth.

Maybe loosen both front motor mounts (a lot) and jack up the engine far enough to get clearance for the petcock to turn. To avoid the risk of wringing off the brass petcock, I would drain and flush the radiator and put in the proper mix of anti-freeze.

Undamaged. Light rust on the back and a few spots on the front.

I have a pair of bumpers that came with our little '34 pickup hot rod, but will not ever use them. Undamaged, but with some surface rust. Will post on Swap Meet but no idea what they might be worth. There are none on Swap Meet and none on Ebay. Any suggestion regarding a fair but quick-sale...

Does it make the noise with the clutch pedal depressed only for enough for the throwout bearing to contact but not release the clutch? That is, just as you begin to feel resistance from the release arms on the clutch pressure plate. Or only when the clutch is depressed far enough to disengage...

Valvoline VR Racing oil has the zinc but is low on detergent. Great for break in. So after break in I use one quart of that and four quarts of regular 10-30 name brand.

That speedometer looks beautiful. Even with new lettering you can not read the speedo or gauges on my '41 without shining a flashlight on them, even during the day; not much better with the panel lights on at night. Red needles against gold background, shadowed. They really fixed it on your '46!

The Dennis Carpenter water pumps I put in helped cooking at idle, and did not hurt cooling at highway speed by cavitation.

I found another source for the NGK B-5HS plugs, which have 1/2" reach needed. And the "5" is a hotter plug than the "6's" that fouled. I do love my three hot rod air cleaners and hope that at half throttle the one on the center carb is adequate; after which the secondaries open, and no...

The seller on Ebay listed 16 of these as NOS. Probably should have been listed as rejects. All but one of them have resistance from the top to the tip, several were over 5,000 Ohms. Listed as not returnable. I contacted seller to see if he will give me a refund. If not, my review will be a...