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I just changed the oil last month, let it drain a good half hour while doing other tasks, and put 4 qrts back in. Next-day level (after idling to warm the prior day) was about 1/8-in below the new mark... so not sure what the PO did here. I don't see a 'problem', just looking for some reassurance.

Well, its the 2-ton COE, so cornering sportily and 60 MPH is beyond reach. On initial start-up, mechanical ‘thermometer’ gauge shows PSI in the low 30s. That will drop (at idle) to the low 20s once warmed up. Not enough seat time yet to report on at-speed pressures. I read a number of...

Have (as far as I know) an un-rebuilt '46-48 59AB 239, with this dipstick. All stock (with a few older parts, such as the diver's helmet- might have been from the original truck: 1940). No oil filter. Someone in the past was rather vehement about re-stamping the stick. Level is just shy of the...

I did rebuild the carb that was on the truck- cleaned the swapper base but of course there's not much to that. Idled so nicely before, feels like a bit of a sucker punch. I read someone recommending a carb rebuilder on this board somewhere - anyone recommend anyone?

Sprayed the outside all over- no difference in RPM. UPDATE :: Took carb off (Ford script 91-99). Tilting it in mid-air and fuel was running out the throttle shaft. This is a 'truck' carb with the manual throttle on the other end of the throttle shaft- that's where it was dripping. I have an 8BA...

Whistle remains when revving motor. Only variable it the truck has to warm up first (7 mins of idling), that's when it starts. One of these clues has to be tell-tale (7 mins, still there when revving)....

(Partially) stripped threads were at the upside down screw, between the bottom & center sections. I JB Welded a stud into the upper section so the sections tightened down with a nut instead of turning threads in the aluminum. I've read mention of 'thicker copper' gaskets- where are these available?

SO this HAS to be related to something heating up if it consistantly takes about 7 mins of run time to happen. The aluminum sections of the carb never get this warm, and I believe the cast base of the carb never got 'hot'- it was sweating & cool for most of that time. Unless it's the intake...

Tried the hose/listening method, and it is difficult. With engine/fan running and the carb so relatively small, there was nothing conclusive heard anywhere around the outside. IMO, a torch gas test would be the same thing- difficult with the fan blowing and even less targeting than carb cleaner...

REVIVAL :: Have a rebuilt 91-99 Ford carb on a stock 59AB flathead/intake. Truck starts, idles & runs well, but have whistling vacuum leak. 3 times now have started the truck cold & timed it. Parked, it takes about 7 minutes for the truck to warm to the point the carb starts whistling, and it's...

Correct- '57 Roadmasters had them, I believe it was the upper series in '58, and across the board in '59 (I own a '59 Invicta). The '57-58 drums are different looking- when you look at the braking surface, you see a pattern of aluminum circles (could not find a pic online). Buick changed the...

I don't have a known good one, only have 2 & 1 is 'known bad'. All wiring is brand new. Will look at testing it as you stated... I did try the sender on a known good oil pressure gauge, to see if the float arm moved that needle, and it did. Don't know why this assembly is causing the needle...

Have an all stock '40 COE 239. Still 6V, all original gauges. This truck has been an amazingly willing resurrection candidate- most components when opened/disassembled have been extremely clean & operable. Changed out the original gauge cluster with a much nicer one bought at Hershey, but...

Took generator to olde tyme starter/generator shop. In that I wasn't sure it was outputting correctly, I felt it was worth it. They found that the front bearing was toast & scoring the shaft. They brazed the shaft, turned it, replaced both bearings and replaced the lockwashers with a proper...

Took generator out (again). Removed fan & pulley- found something quizzical. BETWEEN the pulley and the front bearing in the generator were 2 LOCKwashers. They were perfect matches for the LW behind the pulley nut, but for the life of me I can't figure a reason to lock the bearing to the shaft...

No no; when I hear the squeal, I hit the ignition toggle, shutting the truck off. This is maybe a 4 second time span- I'm not eager to see how loud it'll keep getting or what is going to break. If I put oil in the rear port, it's quiet... for about 1-2 mins of idling, then starts again. <-- This...

• I reused the wick that was in mine- it was saturated & sound. • the bushing is not too deep, oil dropped into the oil port definitely gets into the oil well and weeps out the bleed hole when full. Last time I pulled it apart the shaft was liberally oily, plus there was a smear of oil at the...

Theory: are you supposed to drill a hole in the rear bushing large enough for the wick to push thru & ride on the shaft? It's the only scenario that makes logical sense to me. All the repro bushing are hole-less because 1. it's cheaper to produce, and 2. maybe different generators have different...

This is similar to mine: http://www.macsautoparts.com/assets/macs/images/size/160x160/sku/64-14595.jpg an oil port to the north, the shaft & bushing central, and an 'oil well' & wick below. The oil you dribble in the oil port runs around the rear open end of the bushing... some goes around the...

No; bushing fills the space in the rear cover, the oil wick presses against the outside of the bushing. I would've also thought it should touch the shaft directly... like there should be a hole large enough in the bottom for the wick to go thru... but all repro bushings have no hole. Am I...