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Early Ford is 5 on 51/2" some late ford full size stuff is 5"

Re: 1932 3w build thread / “freshening up Looks fantastic from here Cory.... just how they should’ve looked the day they were made

The 40 I put together for my dad came to me with a 46 or 47 already in it I left it in ..... fits and works fine

Install a wishbone yoke from a 28 - 34 wishbone and fab a mount for the ball socket ... it should land on the new trans cross member. Heat and bend the spring mounts back out to where they were. Simple - cheap - keeps it ford as it should be

What you are referring to is not a 33 axle Its is a post 1936 replacement axle for 32 to 36 cars and pickups … unlike production line 32 to 36 axles it has a part number that can be referenced in the green book.

Id Remove the valve assembly’s Check spring pressure at installed height … (shim for more if needed ) Disassemble and clean Spin the valves in the guides with a drill motor Check that I’ve made them slide better Lap and re assemble

I don’t know why everyone jumps to the Chassis Engendering setup Remove the center of the X member (no cutting) Then All you need to do is change the yoke in the 35 up wishbone to a 28 - 34 wide yoke - make a ball socket from a cap - anchor it on the new T5 cross member. For the open drive...

Weiand S Edelbrock S Edmunds And probably a bunch more old / original heads were designed to drop right on over stock studs I don’t think that can be said for any of the new heads

Flathead bores are tougher than some of you give them credit for … part of the reason there still here. The truth is you’d have a hard time wearing one to the point of needing a rebore in the time any of you have left. Bore it out all the way ... you cant take it with ya

So sad to hear this Dick is as solid as they come … did me a huge favor once 　 Hang in there Dick

Id look for other opinions on rebuilding the one you have…its all set up and fitting Id guess you’re previous rebuilds were done with import parts … try to find a old timey builder that will have quality parts or know where to get them

Mr Drake I find it odd that something so simple as adjusting a paint color cant get done

Yes daddyo’s setup is cool .. But in my opinion more expense and work than just switching to a open drive rear. If im not mistaken. With an X member you will still need to take out the center and you need to shorten the tube and shaft … because the overall trans is longer than the EF 3 spd So...

Pickup pan is the best fit without cutting anything Rear sump Mercury pan with the windage tray is deeper in the front and may contact U bolts and or cross member and will be close to the axle and tie rod … it did on my 35 In the end I made a 59 pan work on the 8ba for maximum clearance I...

If you all are doing this correctly you don’t use clamps Contact cement is meant to be applied to both surfaces and left to dry Then and only then do you put the cover on the board This is the same as 3M weather strip adhesive …. If you read the tube

Remove from car Strip rubber Sandblast (if any rust whatsoever) Fill low spots Epoxy prime Dry fit covers Recover … works best w two people

If you want the absolute best no BS thing you can apply yourself http://www.cerakotehightemp.com/

I think I’ve used modified ballpoint pen springs for this issue before … but my old mind may be wrong

Like I said already I will see them in person before anything changes hands I just wanted to confirm what id heard about interchange

I need these to go on a coupe … I will pick them up in person … I just want to make sure of the coupe sedan being the same. I don’t want him to bother getting fenders I cant use and waist his cash So now I can tell him to look for the best two w tail light holes Thanks