Search results

I had a similar problem when I was rebuilding a two-tooth. It turned out that the tube on the new end plate was too large in diameter and would not fit inti the end of the steering shaft. I got a different tube which fit properly. Just make sure the horn rod will also fit before you install it.

Re: Installing rear hub seals—what’s the trick A trick that has helped me is to put the seal in the freezer well before I am going to work on greasing the bearings; make sure the edge of the hub where the seal is going to be inserted has no burrs then after the bearing is in place, put a smear...

An 8 Point 7/16" socket works very well.

Since the Model 180A (Deluxe Phaeton) has a different floor configuration, how have others installed front seatbelts (for the 180A, 190A or 400A)? I realize that they do not provide you with the protection everyone expects in modern cars, but I just want something that we keep us in the vehicle...

Your first picture shows the earliest backing plate since it does not have the reinforcement riveted as the next one and the last one with the stabilizing tabs on the perimeter.

I have been looking for the support studs for my Vicky also, but no luck. Presently, the previous owner had used a 3/8 x" bolt and the 9/16" bolt head really buries into the carpet. How should it be attached to the bottom of the seat? When the bolt is inserted into the receiving hole, it doesn't...

I have been using the 100ml Graduated Cylinder (as Jim Cannon stated} for measuring the idle jets and use the 250ml (also available for about $11 from Amazon) to measuring the other jets. Norm

I have found that there can be a fair amount of difference in the gap between each of the contacts inside of the new distributor bodies and new rotors. I will adjust the rotor to .025" on the one with the largest gap and then file the others to match. Then, I keep the rotor and body together...

I have rebuilt Zeniths, Tillotson Xs and F1Bs, and Marvel Schebler carbs; in my opinion the Marvel out performs the other carbs for the Model A. If you are considering installing a Mitchell overdrive, they offer a 36% unit which would probably work well with your 411 rear. Give Steve Mitchell a...

Terry, I just measured the two tooth columns that I have: the ones from the 1929 are 36 5/8" and the 1930's are 37 5/8" (this does not include the spark/throttle quadrants).

I recently finished a couple Zeniths and painted them with the Brodak Dope. Flattening the Gloss Black Dope by 25% brought the paint to a very good color/sheen. After letting the paint cure, I tested two of the carbs on the car and they held up very well with no paint loss. Originally I tried to...

I found a wide angle convex mirror that clips on the car's rear view mirror and provides very good coverage of the "right side blind spot". Since it is a clip-on, it's easily remove with no modifications needed. Found it on Amazon for about $20. ICBEAMER 9.4" 240mm Easy Clip on Wide Angle...

Re: Frame rivets… or … weld ? The front crossmember of my Tudor had been bolted together and since the frame flexes, the holes became too large for an oversize rivet (hole diameter max of 1/32 over rivet size). I TIG welded the holes and then redrilled them to take the original size 1/4" rivets...

On page 4-6 of the Restoration Guidelines and Judging Standards it states "All Model A chassis had a ten leaf front spring with clipped corners at the spring leaf ends."

Undershot the "O" while typing. It's supposed to be "OK"

I just rebuilt a 2 tooth steering box for one of our club members. The car he bought had at least 8 inches of play in the steering. When I took it apart, it was FULL of grease but not on the worm gear and teeth of the sector shaft. The bearings look PK but both the worm gear and sector shaft...

For me, the easiest way to install the rear backing plates as an assembled unit is to remove the rear radius rods, install the rear two bolts then attach the radius rods and the front two bolts on each.

When I installed a Marvel carb, I cut the fuel line and put an inline filter in the middle. This allowed me to easily switch between Zenith, Tillottson and Marvels using the same fuel line and it provided filter protection for the carb.

Of the numerous upper plates I have recently cleaned, I only noticed that the 3 Autolite marked ones had a code (1K, 4K and 2L), I didn't see any code on the unmarked or SP plates. The plate that came out of the distributor which was original to the car had the 1K (Jan 1930?). I believe this...

I just happened to be flipping through the channel when I saw a 1931 SW Town Sedan (model 160B) rolling off - I didn't catch the selling price though.