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I have this valve on my '40 with stock flathead. Allows you to stop the flow of hot water going to the heater until you need it. https://thirdgenauto.com/product/new-1939-48-ford-replacement-heater-valve-assembly/

Since he's new to the Barn, he might be unaware of our private message capabilities. Maybe make another post here with the same info you sent by PM and see if he responds.

The radiator shop cleaning is absolutely the best approach, but if you decide to tackle this job yourself cap off the upper and lower water outlets and pour in a mixture of 75% phosphoric acid and 25% water until it is full. The phosphoric will not harm the metal of the upper and lower tanks...

Another option, depending on where you live is to take your complete spring assembly to a spring shop where they do spring re-arching. There are at least 2 of such shops in the Dallas area, maybe others I'm not aware of. These kinds of shops are experienced in doing this kind of work...

I have rebuilt/restored dozens of these carbs and favor them over the others as far as smooth idle, better throttle response, and overall performance. It's important to make sure to not overtighten the mounting bolts and warp the mating surface flange that attaches to the manifold - this can...

I highly recommend checking the intake manifold bolts -they can definitely loosen over time. My '40 Ford developed a case of hard starting, rough idling, and poor throttle response and had me completely baffled. I checked manifold vacuum and it was way off. Tightened all the bolts to correct...

My favorite solution for that problem is a nice Marvel Schebler carb! :)

I would suggest the convertible top cleaner made by Haartz - the people that perfected convertible top fabric. They are the major OEM supplier to the auto industry. https://www.amazon.com/Raggtopp-Fabric-and-Vinyl-Cleaner/dp/B0002KKIV4/?tag=atomicindus08-20...

TBob, I didn't use any sealer on the water pump gasket. However, I did check all the pump bolts for tightness and they seem to be fine and I don't see any leaks coming from that area. The weep is coming from the outer edge of the head gasket directly under the pump. I'm pretty confident that...

Thanks Brent, Sounds like a very well thought out approach to correcting the problem. I'll give it a go.

Thanks Synchro; appreciate your perspective on the issue.

I would at least drain the cooling system completely before proceeding.

Yes, I'm thinking I should go with the copper based formula instead of aluminum. The engine hasn't been opened in many years according to the owner, so I can't really tell if they used a copper or composite head gasket, but the copper formula seems to make the most sense. What say you?

Thanks for the recommendations. Stop leak is definitely worth a try in this situation.

Need recommendation for a good stop-leak product. Here are the details: I've been working on getting a '30 Coupe (not mine) in running condition again after sitting for roughly 40 years outdoors.:eek: I have it running and driving and the engine sounds remarkably good. After running for an...

When mine hesitates to respond like it should I have to remind myself, it's a 96 year old 6 volt electric motor hanging out front in the wind, rain, and the elements with nothing to protect it from any of that. What could go wrong?? :rolleyes:

A few things I can think of are: inferior metallurgy resulting in premature metal fatigue, incorrect size pin required for application, improper installation, loosening of nut causing a shearing effect on the pin, installing a used pin, and centrifugal force acting against all of the above...

Seems to me if we all agree that the extra long thick head shoulder bolt is not in any way correct or ever will be, then there should be some serious negative feedback to vendors of the damage those bolts will do and they should immediately stop selling them as "correct". I'm pretty ticked that...

19Fordy, I used what I thought were the correct shoulder-type bolts with the special head as per the description on the packaging. Did not turn out the way I thought it would :( I had a perfect hood until this debacle.

I would suggest putting your question out on the Early Ford V8 Club of America website...https://www.earlyfordv8.org/index.cfm Someone on their forum should be able to answer your question about correct color code or mixing formula.