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I like your creativity and steadfast resolve Old Henry and have used many ideas of yours in the past. This one, well, I have to say I'm in Alan's court on. Not sure the need as the stock fitting, once I found the path to it, is easily accessible, for me anyway, with a flex hose. Plus I'm...

Looking for the wider (~1 1/4" wide/tall) x 61" long stainless trim for the right front fender of a 1947 Mercury.

Looking for the wider front fender trim strip - 1.1"-1.2" wide/tall by ~61" long for a '46-'48 Mercury. Any/all help appreciated - please PM.

Bill Wzorek is one of the rebuilders advising me to use 30 wt hydraulic oil. He also advised that the 30 wt hydraulic oil is what he uses when rebuilding and refilling the shocks. I was in the process of working with him on my rebuilds when his unfortunate health issues cropped up a couple of...

Having recently been through this and ultimately biting the bullet and rebuilding all my shocks I can tell you that ALL of the rebuilders I spoke with use 30 wt hydraulic oil to refill the shocks after rebuilding. The original fluid in mine had turned to a dark-greenish, viscous paste that...

I just did this job two weeks ago on a '47 Merc with original shock links and used an OTC 7315A Universal Tie Rod End Remover. Stunningly easy to use and did not require hammers, punches, etc., nor did it require removing the shocks. Highly recommend - available on Amazon. I borrowed one from...

Another vote for the 3.78 over the 3.54. My stock '47 Merc has 3.78 gears and is peppy around town and 'torquey' enough over 45 mph to climb the hills, foothills and mountains here in central and western NC, not only to hold speed but accelerate up most hills when necessary. Were the (vast)...

O'reillys has a pilot bearing puller (specific for pilot bearings that attaches to your or their slide hammer) for rent as part of their routine tool 'loaner' program. I recently used one during a clutch change and with 2-3 easy pops it was done. Worked great.

I think you have your answer. Assuming you have a 59AB in your '47, compression should be running 100 psi min and ~115-120 psi/cylinder for a motor in good running condition. Recall tells me the original spec for 79As and 79Ms is 120 lbs - check Van Pelt's website for confirmation of my...

Moonshine Runner - assuming you are limiting the rebuild to a 239 short block only (with intake and exhaust manifolds plus oil pan and oil pump and water pumps included), and your block is of sound mind and body and not cracked and/or filled with mold sand, and you are pulling and reinstalling...

In rebuilding a previously untouched 59 A-B found that the cylinders serviced by the right/passenger barrel of the carb were running much richer than the left, this after running the car for 1,000 miles+ on the rebuilt carb (i.e., not sure whether the rich deposits on these 4 cylinders were from...

Nice '47 S - similar car here with heavy build-up after 37K original miles and decades of sitting. Removed all wiring harnesses, plug wires & generator first (have had very bad experiences when not doing this), then wrapped carb & dist in plastic. Covered front end components (drag link, tie...

Excellent input with your personal experience and 'starting point' recommendations Bill. Your comments have addressed most of my initial concerns. Great comments concerning the shifting speed of the '46-48's' versus prior designs as well. Am beginning the homework/learning process on...

Thanks on the Columbia advice to all. I do have a significant amount of homework to do as I am completely unfamiliar with how to identify a quality unit and as well where to find one. Page one begins now...

7.4 is fine and is indicative of your battery calling for and receiving some degree of charge. Check it again after running for a while and you are certain the battery is fully charged - you will likely see at reading then of 6.7-6.9 volts assuming no other demand (headlights, etc.) is...

Thanks 41PICUP for your reply - please see my response to bobH above as well. Very good info in your response which further solidifies my decision in which direction I need to go. I also think, as bobH referenced, that 70 mph (actual, 65 or so on the speedo) is the max for me as well but...

Perfect - thanks bobH - your and 41PICUP's responses were the kind of personal experience responses I was looking for. I was concerned moving up to the 3.54 may turn the car into (as you say) a slug in in-city driving while still leaving me wanting for another gear at highway speeds. It is fun...

Thanks Alan. The main issue for me twofold: 1) Satisfying my 85 year old father's disdain for the cabin noise associated with the higher rpms (3,000+) of the flathead (he is a former owner of '50, '57 and '62 Mercs) and 2) Fuel consumption, again associated with the higher rpms. The motor...

Thanks rick r. You are on the mark with my objective which is to get to a much lower rpm and quieter cruising speed of 2,000 - 2,200 rpm. Quite uncomfortable pushing this 66 year old engine a constant 3,000 rpm with occasional spikes to 4,000. I've done the math as well though those selling...

If the car has a 3.78 rear and you routinely drive it at speed (i.e., 55 mph and up on the speedo) definitely count on mpg being at the low end of the range - ~12-13 mpg. Those that represent 20 mpg with a straight face either have a Columbia overdrive unit which reduces the end ratio to the...