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I replaced the center dash rail screw with an aluminum phone ball mount. Allows attachment of many different mounts, and is not very noticeable when the mount is removed.

J. Edgar Hoover listening device

I, too have had good luck with electronic systems, both FSI and Petronix. I find that it is difficult to get good quality points and condensers these days. I've had the same problem with vintage motorcycles. If you can fin NOS Ford parts, you will have little trouble. Barring that, I'd say...

SOLD: New set of Ted's 1928-35 full four-wheel brake floaters. Ford Licensed part No. A-2051-FHT. I ordered this kit from Snyders last year but decided not to use it. Includes instructions. See https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/searchm.htm?type=merged&sterm=&searcht=+A-2051-FHT for details...

Probably the new rings haven't seated yet, allowing more blow-by than usual. The problem should abate with some more miles.

Cut-down Tudor?

My speedometer itself howled like a coyote until I rebuilt it. Lots of dried grease in there. The cable was good, though.

Yes, but the springs will be difficult to reach.

I use them because of their help with water draining and valve cover and carb drips.

Maybe put a washer or two under the spindle stop bolt?

Hardest part of installing my Gross steering box was removing the steering wheel from the old column. Otherwise, it really was just a bolt-in. The original horn rod, light switch, steering wheel and Pittman arm fit just like they did on the original steering column. The spark and throttle...

That's it! I guess they don't have English thread taps in China.

Does anyone know the thread size of the wind wing/wiper stanchion line mount holes on the back of the '30 deluxe open car stanchions (probably reproduction stanchions in my case)? I can't seem to find bolts to fit them. 5/16 is too small. 3/8 is too large. Could they be metric? Fine thread...

Found one. Thanks!

My original cap jet had a crack near its base that allowed fuel to leak, which messed up the fuel level and caused idle problems.

Good point. Mine isn’t connected that way. I’ll clean the paint out of those areas and try it.

Well, I can't send a picture. Never figured out how to do it on this site. However, I think you are probably right, in that the only way power could get to the horn frame would be from the connectors on the horn wires. Perhaps when I place the cover, the conduit slides up enough to contact...

OK, I admit that I don’t understand my horn’s wiring. Actually, I don’t understand any wiring. If you use terms like “complete the circuit to ground,” or “the field collapses,” I have no idea what you are talking about. My car is stock, 6V positive ground. My horn works well, but recently I...

I did that. About a month later, she got pulled over on the tollway for driving too slowly.

SOLD I recently purchased a 1930 roadster, and it came with two unused LeBaron Bonney tan top boots, one of which is for a '31 deluxe phaeton (the two-door one). I'm selling them. $200? I can't figure out how to post photos, so PM with an email or phone number for photos.