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I got an “auto lift” from Best Buy auto about two weeks ago. Did a great deal of research. I had planned on installing it myself, but happened to meet an installer when picking it up. Made me an offer I couldn’t refuse, so I had him install it. Turned out to be a good decision. During...

Problem solved. Thanks to all those that offered help. It's been like learning how a magic trick is done -- "that's so simple, why was it so hard to solve." The short answer is that the shoes were not properly adjusted. I find it difficult to believe the very, very, very, small adjustments...

Correction, I'm getting 2.5" of travel with only the left front open. This is the cylinder with the most travel. (I know I haven't separated the back wheels, but combined they're 4". I'm using DOT 4 fluid. It's all new, been bled several time. Just FYI, when I started working on the...

It's a highly modified Model A pickup; I call it my Johnny Cash car. I bought it like that. Some things were done great; some not so great, including the brakes. Here's some better data; today I'm able to get consistent results. I have three flex lines I can squeeze off: two in the front and...

Cylinders are a 48-51 Ford 1 1/8" and 1" on the front and 1" on the rear. Yes, I purchased one new front cylinder, and I rebuilt the other three. Since I can pinch off the line, I believe the problem is from the wheel cylinder to drum -- no other place to look. Since I can manually lock the...

Thanks for the replies, here's some better info and an update. The MC is a Ford F-100 1961-1966. MAPA part # P36072. Just put it on the rack, and this is my result today (I'm not skilled enough to get the same results everyday, which is probably my biggest problem.) I can pinch off the back...

I talked to Wilwood this morning. They believe even with the built in pressure valve, I need the 10# on the front and back each. I'm struggling with understanding how air "is" getting into the system since I don't see any air when I re-bleed the brakes. I have an original Ford 1" single bore...

I’ll try the 1 1/8” MC. If I’m going to change MC, then I’d like to put in a dual. The question then, do I need the wilwood pressure valves since the MC is lower than the wheel cylinders?

Thanks. It is not a dual master cylinder. If there is supposed to be a check valve, that helps me understand a couple of things- the 1 1/8” master cylinder I tried was defective and I probably didn’t get it bleed properly. Also, why would the wilwood valve be necessary?

I'm trying to diagnose a spongy brake problem on a '41 Ford four drum setup; master cylinder with a single 1" bore is mounted lower than the wheel cylinders. Lines are bled, drums turned, new shoes, new lines, new master cylinder and tested, wheel cylinders rebuilt - no leaks anywhere. I put...

Re: Adjusting Brakes for a 39 – 41 Ford Thought I'd give those kind enough to help an update. Couldn't locate the issue, so I decided to do a complete rebuild. In the process, I learned I had a multitude of issues. The cam washers on the anchor pins were .015 undersize of the shoe metal...

Re: Adjusting Brakes for a 39 – 41 Ford Well, just discovered the problem. Wheel cylinder is holding hydraulic pressure. Whole new set of problems. Thanks for the help

Re: Adjusting Brakes for a 39 – 41 Ford Thanks KGS. These are the instructions I used. Item 2 will not work for me; in this position, I cannot get the drum on. Once on, I cannot turn to this position as there is not enough movement in the cam. From reading the instructions (both), I get the...

Re: Adjusting Brakes for a 39 – 41 Ford Thanks. I read those instructions and compared with another set which said the same except but did not say to apply brake pressure. I did chose to use the other instructions. I'll try it with brake pressure. I cannot set the anchor pin marks facing...

Adjusting Brakes for a 39 – 41 Ford Need help; can’t seem to get it right. First, both lower cams must be turned in wrong direction approximately 45 degrees to get the hub to mount, and they have very little movement either way before locking the drum. Second, the instructions and theory on...

Just bought a Wells Cargo 20 ft trailer with plywood beds, and I'm installing e track tie down strips. The steel framing underneath are on 24" centers. I am planning on putting pairs of 1/4" bolts through the floor using 1 1/2" x 1/8" steel bars running perpendicular to the etrack as...

Turning drums would work but would use up a lot of material. Shoes fit nicely in the drums but removing material would work as well. I'm in the Dallas area. Cable length may be it. It looks like if I lengthen the cable the shoes may retract. Thanks I'll try it tomorrow.

I am installing new brake cylinders and shoes on a 1929 Model A pickup that has had juice brakes installed. On the front, I had to move the shoes in as far as they would go to get the drum on. On the rear, when I attempted to attach the horizontal hand brake activator, I had to move the shoes...

Thanks for the advice. Took it for a drive. With one quart of atf, it shifted in and out like a dream. Now to figure out how to install safety switch.

Drained the oil -- it had about 2/3 a cup of oil in unit. Put in a quart of ATF. It filled it up a little over half full. Hope that's not too much. Had hoped to test drive and report on how well it worked but when checking brakes I learn the front brakes did not work. Oh well. Will continue to...