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You can avoid the hassle of draining the tank by replacing the inside fuel line (between the tank valve and inside firewall) with a new line which has an inline valve - available and Bratton's ... https://www.brattons.com/30-31gas-line-with-shut-off-valve.html After posting this, I installed...

Thanks so much. I believe I did have that clamp too far from the re-enforcing rib. There may be a crack in the outlet, but I sure can't see or feel one. I am amazed. I am still going to coat the inside with J-B Weld.

You are exactly right.

Thanks for the tip. I found the problem. Check out my reply and pic above.

Thanks for the tip. I found the problem. Check out my replies above with pic.

Check out the pic. This explains everything. I was able to pull this fold back out with pliers and got it close to round. It seems to be soft brass. Amazingly, I can’t see or feel any cracks. I am going to buy a tail pipe expander tool to carefully straighten it out the rest of the way and...

Check out the pic. This explains everything. I was able to pull this fold back out with pliers and got it close to round. It seems to be soft brass. Amazingly, I can’t see or feel any cracks. I am going to buy a tail pipe expander tool to carefully straighten it out the rest of the way and...

I did that after the last time I pulled the radiator. I think there has to be a little wrinkle or fold in the outlet pipe that will have to be fixed first. Thanks.

Good idea. If I could get it in there without pulling the radiator, it would be great. But it is pretty close quarters down in there.

I think you have likely nailed the problem. I was hoping someone would tell me a way to fix it without pulling the radiator again, but you are probably right that it has to come out. RATS!

That sounds like it could be the problem. Can I fix it without pulling the radiator again?

Hi Tom - Thanks for the quick reply. It is not leaking from the connection with the steel pipe. It is leaking from the clamp on the outlet of the radiator.

I have been plagued with a cooling system leak on my Model A for the last several years, thought I got it fixed several times, and now it is back. The leak is definitely coming from the connection of the lower radiator hose on the bottom outlet pipe of the radiator. I pulled the radiator out...

Thanks to all of you who replied to my questions. I am going to paint the shock arms and dog bone links with a spray can of Rustoleum Primer and then apply a top coat of Rustoleum Gloss Black. It sounds like the rubber cushions in the dog bone links work fine with no lubricant at all, so I...

Two questions: 1. I am going to install new dog-bone links. Are you supposed to put any lubricant inside and around the rubber ball covers? 2. I got the links from Snyder's and they have some kind of a black finish on them, but the arms, which I also got from Snyder's are not painted...

I studied this thread before purchasing hinge-mount mirrors for my 1930 Standard coupe. I bought some really nice mirrors from Mike's A-Fordable. They have one for the left side and a different one for the right side. I bought a hinge-removal tool from Snyder's that is like a C-Clamp with a hole...

Thanks.

Does anyone know if a stone guard has any appreciable effect on cooling? I operate my 1930 Coupe at 6000 feet elevation and above in the summer and don't want to put one on if it is going to make it run significantly hotter. Thanks.

Tom - You seem like a good resource for all kinds of info. I am thinking of purchasing a stone guard for my 1930 Standard Coupe, and I am wondering how much of an effect it has on cooling. I operate in Montana at 6000' elevation and above in the summer and don't want to put one on if it will...