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Sounds logical to me although I'd use wheel bearing grease instead of white lithium. I'm not sure if it's in the Les Andrews books, service manuals or just common practice but the parking brakes should drag at 2 clicks and lock at 3. As for the equalizers, it's up to you. The new wedges and...

I just started at RBC before Thanksgiving. Unfortunately, I think pricing would be many times more than any of us would pay if they'd even look at a job as small as antique car transmission bearings. I have been meaning to ask my boss about it though.

Agreed. I tried to shift that way at 10mph or so... never again. If you can rev match, do that. I tend to drop into 2nd between 15-25mph. If the car starts lugging up a hill I'll downshift at 25, taking a corner on a flat road I'll let it slow down to 15. I know what the manual says but under...

Is that a tank or just a panel where the tank would go? 1929 saw the change from the 60 series Fordors to the 155/165 series that carried through 1931. A 60 series from 28-(mid?)29 would be very easy to tell apart, the later bodies would be tougher. All Fordors (except taxi) had a more...

The engine date is 4/10/30 and I bet it's the correct number. It's got forged front fender brackets, and an electric wiper. So it could have been built anytime between mid-April to early July. Assuming it was originally sold in northwest Connecticut I think it would have been built in Kearny...

I've got a 165-C standard Murray. I'm probably biased but I like the look of a standard car without side mounts or cowl lights. My grandparents bought this car in 2001 from a family friend who claimed it was originally sold locally. Our club does have a ton of Fordors in it but now that I...

Use dishwasher detergent, laundry detergent will foam worse than anything you've seen yet.

Try calling around. Websites might only list the kit with the bearings but the vendors might be willing to sell just the sleeve. NOS bearings are the way to go unless you want to use Synchro's method.

I did 5 tubes back in January. I bought one extra but didn't end up needing it. I followed that guide but used a regular pair of needle nose pliers with a nice radius on the outside that wouldn't bite into the tube. It's now been 7 months, 1200 miles and no leaks.

Not to worry no harm done. It’s hard to over oil a Model A. Also don’t worry about not having the drilled upper shaft. There have also been plenty of posts showing evidence that as long as you fill the oil cup oil will migrate up to the top bushing.

Looks like a round speedo tank to me. http://www.plucks329s.org/pdf/gastank/Evo30_31gas_tank.pdf

Probably the best way is to make a jig to hold the throttle shaft while you peen the arm. I suppose you could also assemble it into the carb and use that as the jig.

Almost without fail, getting my car out after the winter it takes me a bit to get back in the groove. I've taught a couple guys to drive my Fordor and both of them initially made the 1-2 shift way too slow. Must be something about wanting to be gentle with an old car.

I just got a new plain cap recently and have the same issue. My radiator is an older one from Independent Radiator, the same company that makes the non-brassworks radiators sold by (I believe) Brattons, Snyders and others.

Here's a wrench available on McMaster. 13/32 on one end, 5/16 on the other. Handy for carb work. https://www.mcmaster.com/5401A19/

It depends on the friction between the wiper blade and the glass but I think it's around 2A. I can double check later today. The various wiper motors will also probably have different current draw.

I got a set of FAMs for free and decided to try them out. I noticed only a marginal difference, nothing worth getting excited over. I'll swap back over to the stock mounts probably this winter. Bit of a pain of a job though.

Another issue is if the fins get loose and the tubes can't transfer the heat to them efficiently.

For not a ton of money you can add a temp gauge to really see what the coolant temp is doing. I always thought my radiator was marginal. Added a temp gauge and found it runs in the 140-150 range. You might not have much of a problem other than overfilling.

I agree with Bob, there shouldn't be a wire from the switch to the ammeter. Also, there should just be two wires off of the ignition switch, power from the coil and the wire to the points. My guess is that the extra wires from the PO are at fault or at the very least confusing all of us here.