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Re: Title Woe’s For the Ford Barn folks in Connecticut, I fellow Ford enthusiast was able to receive a CT title for his 1934 Ford Pickup. He was kind enough to document the procedure and share it for anyone in CT seeking a title. Many thanks to Jim Borbas Jr. for sharing! If you have any...

I’ve done it both ways. Pulling the engine and pulling the rear end. I personally find it a little easier to pull the rear end. However if you pull the engine you can also pull it with the transmission attached. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Re: Title Woe’s Pulled this information off the CT DMV website.

Re: Title Woe’s Title in Hand! It only took countless phone calls to the Oregon, Idaho, Washington, Connecticut and Virginia DMV offices, hours on hold and countless explanations to different people each time I called. Seven months later I finally receive a title for my roadster! Let me do a...

Re: Title Woe’s Here’s an update on my title woes. I have spent several hours talking to the Virginia, Idaho, Washington State and Oregon DMV’s. I was able to get some history on my car and the car out of Oregon. My car was titled in Idaho in 1998 until I purchased the car in 2014 and prior to...

Re: Title Woe’s Tanks everyone for your response. I will keep you posted on my progress.

Re: Title Woe’s Thanks for the reply, I will keep you posted to see how things turn out.

Title Woe’s I have a 1936 Ford Roadster that I purchased from a friend in Idaho 8 years ago. The car came with a clear title. At the time I lived in Connecticut and they do not issue titles for cars older than 25 years. Recently I moved to Virginia and went to title the car with all the proper...

http://turnswitch.com/Turnsignal.htm Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Chris, I’ve been running my slingshot manifold with a straight linkage for the past five years since I started this thread. Initially I had some issues setting it up the carbs, but found it was mostly my inexperience was at fault. Since the original setup, I have had no issues running the duals...

If you are looking for a certain year? All Columbia internals are interchangeable with all years. The only difference between the years are the axle housings and axles lengths. You can use any year Columbia by modifying the axle housing. Columbia Two Speed Parts...

In my town, the local fire department has been very helpful with these types of concerns. They would much rather be proactive than reactive. A call to your local fire department might yield some good intel on what works best. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It looks like it is, however these tail lights were also used on 1948 through 1956 Ford Panel Trucks, so they might have been produced by more than one manufacturer with a slightly different mold pattern. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

You can always get lenses with the blue dots in the correct place. I ran these for many years until I switched to LED tail lights. https://bobdrake.com/products/41-car-46-48-sprtsmn-48-56-pnl-tail-light-lens-w-blue-dot?_pos=10&_sid=ab57621ae&_ss=r Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Bob Drake sells longer motor mount bolts. https://bobdrake.com/products/1932-48-car-1932-51-pickup-motor-mount-bolt-long?_pos=1&_sid=4889be6f5&_ss=r Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

To answer your question, there are left and right tail lights. In your pictures the tail light with the blue dot lens is mounted on the wrong side. It should be on the opposite fender. If you remove the lens and look inside the light socket is not centered, it should be mounted to the bottom...

I just went through an issue with replacing my front brake drums on my 41 Ford. I thought a brake job would be a straight forward job, right? I found a set of new drums at Hershey at a great price. I thought it was a great score and save a little money as well. The first hurdle was splitting...

I liked the kits from ECI. https://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/early_ford_discbrake_conversions.html Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Welcome to the forum! There are several ways to lower your car depending on how much time and effort you want to put in to get the desired look and handling you want. You might do some research on the H.A.M.B forum, there is a lot of good information from those that have lowered there cars. 1...

The OEM recommends 140W for warmer climates and 90W for colder climates. Modern gear oil it’s multi weight. I’ve been using 85w-140W for many years with no issues. I also use 75w-90W in my transmission and it seams to shift better on cold days. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk