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Health issues forces me to sell some of my "stuff". Up for sale is my 1960 Ford 2dr. Courier. Picked it up as a project and didn't get too far. Body is in good shape (from Texas) and not a rust bucket. The rockers, inner fenders, and doors are in good shape. I can supply any pics you might need...

Regarding the band I believe you have to remove the main control and band adjusters to see it. Once you get it apart the drum may have hot spots in it or could be extremely shiny. Don't know if you can still find a snapband for it, it's been more than 50yrs. If that ends up to be your problem...

Thinking back to the mid 60's I recall the Trans guy at the Ford dealer I worked at repaired more than a few cars that had a slipping intermediate gear. Don't recall if it was a Fordomatic or Cruisomatic. Problem was the band couldn't grip the drum when it shifted because the drum was glazed and...

Met him at the Autorama in Detroit a few years ago. Just about the nicest guy you would ever want to meet.

X2 on BSF82

The procedure for replacing a drum or a hub back when I started in the 60's was after you assembled the hub & drum you had to turn it on the brake lathe so they ran true together. Don't know how you can put them together and not end up with a brake vibration without turning it.

Have you tried a carb spacer on the manifold? Right one might seal things up. Have to look at those too. The ones that run a vacuum port at the rear may not seal up either. Tried one on a yblock and had a big leak from that area because of the way the manifold is made. Switched to an aftermarket...

Found one.

2x on the trailer.

WTB a lower rear seat for my 61 Ford. The type I need doesn't have a relief for the drive shaft tunnel but is straight across the length of the seat. Upholstery doesn't matter just need a good lower frame. Let me know total cost w/shipping. If your fairly close I can pick it up. Thanks Dan

Yes the switch was attached to the cover. They were also different between the Galaxie/LTD's and the smaller body cars like Mustang & Mavericks.

They were a Ford service part.

Used to be able to purchase the park switch. May be hard to find now. Replaced quite a few way back when.

Usually the seal leaks because the extension housing bushing or the drive shaft yoke is worn. Or both.We used to use a tool that would slide over the output shaft and the raised lip on the end would hook on to the end of the bushing and you just tightened the screw to pull the bushing out.

If I remember correctly the spring attached to the front of the "intake manifold" cast into the whole cylinder head.

X2 on Ft. Wayne Clutch.

I've read many posts on numerous sites where "younger" guys question the term 3/4 cam. Like it's been mentioned it was just a term we used to describe a cam back then. To me it's no dumber than installing a RV cam a name used today. What, your gonna install a RV cam then take it camping.

Usually the seal leaks because the bushing is worn. Should replace both at the same time. The grooved yoke needs to be replaced also.

Worked 40+ yrs as a mechanic and have used all types of hoists. The last 15 with a 2 post. Used some real scary air/hydraulic 2 posts when I first started. If a seal blew on 1 of the posts that car was coming down. After I retired I just had to have a hoist. I went with a 2 post Challenger. Only...