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One’s an early 239 (or 256?) the other later one with the later model cam. Explained here https://www.fordbarn.com/threads/parts-sources.361019/#post-2477709

Looks good to me. Thanks for all the work. I’m one of the old, grumpy ones who barely gets by, but it’s working fine for me.

They built F100’s for about 30 years, so adding the year would help. Also your location, since some are a shipping problem with the shaft. You restoring an original, doing a conversion, or some other project?

Great story. Sounds like why I gave up chasing younger women.

These wiring diagrams as first rate, way better than what is in the factory manual. Old guys like me buy the big one. This same diagram is in the work shop manual, but small and black and white...

Over 20 years ago I rewired my 55 bird with a Centech panel. It’s worked perfectly. I had the whole interior out, redid everything. I pulled the dash and did it on the bench. I’m not sure they’re still around, I’m only seeing them on eBay. I’ve done 3 other cars with American Auto Wire...

The manual will give you the toe in spec. But it will be for oem bias plies. There may be a different spec for radials. The manual will also give examples of tire wear for camber and castor problems. Off hand, I’d say toe would be more like 1/16 or 1/8”. If I’m reading right yours is more...

Been a long time, so consult the manual before you trust my memory. The slack in the box and the “tightening” mentioned above needs to be done with the box centered. There’s a high point you adjust to. Then the steering wheel is center by proper adjustment of the tie rod ends. Sounds like...

Try Van Pelt Sales. They’re experts. Mac’s on the HAMB fairly frequently. Usually behind a the BW T-85. Damn near bullet proof. I think they were standard behind the 406’s also, but by then most ordered the 4 speed. Worth some decent money if you’re not going to use it.

From my own experience chasing brake kits. Check the pressure at the master. Then at every wheel. I’ve seen brakes not working both because the pressure is low and that the volume is low. If you can’t get enough volume before it bottoms out you’ll never get the pressure up. I also had one...

“ Manual / Overdrive: Requires a GL-1 mineral gear oil (such as SAE 80W or 90W). Avoid modern higher-number GL-5 oils, as their additives can damage vulnerable internal brass components.” 90w originally. Remember that even though they fill separately they’re connected. IIRC fill transmission...

The new kinder and gentler K. I’d add a smiley face if I knew how. Reminds me a line from W E B Griffin’s books “The true test of a man’s intelligence is how often he agrees with you”

You’re on the right track with the cam choice and first 2 manifolds. Focus on the torque curve, not hp, that’s what makes a street car fun to cruise and drive. You might also research some of the 4100 series Autolite carbs. Or the modern clones with the annular boosters. They’ve got a pretty...

Keep your head down, and that great collection of parts catalogs and manuals around. Always good info. Maybe got time off for good behavior? Like over on yblocksforever?

My brother had a 63 1/2 fastback. 390, 4 speed, highway gears. Bought it 3 years old from a traveling salesman. Big territory, all of WA and OR. Set up for passing on 2 lane highways. Sample cases in the trunk. Can’t tell you how many times I wished we had that back. Quite a bit of action...

Well said. So I was close, the existing loadomatic port on the carb doesn’t provide the correct vacuum signal to the loadomatic can. With the upgrade to a 57, either manifold vacuum, or a modern carb with a port. Or, I guess, a mod like Ted Eaton does on the 4 barrel. Thanks, rotorwrench .

Does that have the Dana 44 (or a variant) rear end? FOMOCO used the Dana’s in wagons, police specials, Tbirds, and pickups at least thru 56, and many Mercury’s. The standard rearend was not robust enough. That changed when the 9” came out in 57. If it’s one of the Dana’s (google Dana 44...

Where I’m going with this, and other comments welcomed. The loadomatic vacuum port on the carb get more vacuum as the throttle opens, as it’s measured thru a Venturi above the throttle plates. So at part throttle cruise it’s not seeing the full manifold vacuum the 57 up can is designed for...

I know Ted Eaton has an article on modifying a 4 barrel to run the later distributor, but don’t recall a 2 barrel. Just out of curiosity, what’s the effect at idle with and without the vacuum hooked up?

Re: 1955 Sunliner overdrive problem… Sure makes it sound like the switch. Got a VOM? You can check the switch. If it’s good, I’d be looking at the petronix next. But as I said, I’ve heard both that it fries them, and that they don’t care. Obviously, yours isn’t fried.