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Coupe

81 and still going at it.

I would like see them also.

Drive them in with a hammer.

I guess the GAV knows where it wants to run. A half turn is just right.

GRutter: that was a great video you shared. There is always another way to do things if you think about it. Thanks for sharing.

I totally agree.

I have used trial bearings to check set-ups in building gear sets in farm equipment where I worked. You hone out the trial bearing just enough to slip on the shaft and check for proper shims behind the bearing. Once you figure out what you need you instal the shims with the service bearing...

Review Tom Endy’s procedure of axle rebuilding. It is on the Santa Anita As website. It will show you all the steps and tools needed to complete the task.

No need to remove bearings. Just press them further onto the carrier. You may ruin the bearing trying to remove it.

The space behind the bearing needs to be “.000”. .010 is not good enough. The bearings need to be pressed further onto the carrier. Make certain the cups are fully installed in the axle housings also. Use a mirror and flashlight to check. Then make your preload and backlash adjustments. Get...

I Have a 1931 roadster and a 1931 coupe. Both of them have the exact same blocks and body bolts as yours. The one hole on the frame is not used on the coupe or roadster body mounting. Both of my cars were never separated from the frame when I bought them.

Thanks 160B. You are correct. I was asleep at the wheel I think. After I adjusted the fuel level in my carburetor to 3/4” below the seam the stalling during braking stopped. Thanks, Fred

I have had this same problem. Stalling while braking. I check all the normal things but still had stalling. The fix I used was to lower the float level. The fuel level is supposed to be set at 7/8” below the seam on the lower half of carburetor. I changed this by adding extra shims under the...