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Having rebuilt several v8-60's as a hobbiest. I recently purchased a rebuilt v8-60 from a machine shop because the price was right. Pulled the engine after a few 100 miles and found a broken piston land and I am in process of replacing the single piston and rings, re-using the remaining. In...

Good question. Pretty confident it is aluminum, but I didn't check.

I am in need of a .020 3 ring piston for a v8-60 (recently rebuilt engine and piston broke between rings. . .) UGH. Would consider a complete set or a single piston (good used or new). Thanks, Daniel 248-506-9190

Here are some photos of the build. Daniel

Thank you to all. I spent a lot of time on this build and apparently cleaned the transmission too well. After taking off the inspection cover and lubricating things (Thanks Cas3 for the suggestion). Things freed up.I still need to add a return spring. I managed to go for a drive for the first...

The transmission is stamped 73-7006-2. I think this is the commercial v8-60 transmission (accepts larger gears?)

v8Cooperman. I am sorry for the confusion. My setup is a v8-60 in a Model A pickup. I ran the 60 for several years and recently rebuilt the engine (I did not remove the transmission which is a v8-60 commercial transmission). I will try to avoid using the term "engage" to describe what is going...

When I get the clutch to disengage by disconnecting the linkage and gently tapping the linkage arm on the transmission and hook things back up. After depressing the clutch the pedal goes almost to the floor with only a few inches of movement. The first 1/2/to 3/4 of movement is like nothing is...

Sorry about the confusion with my terminology. Using your terminology. The clutch will not engage when the pedal is released (not clamped tightly to the flywheel). There is no clutch return spring. I ran this setup for years before the engine rebuild without issues.

I just reinstalled a V8-60 in my model A. The transmission is a commercial v8-60 transmission. I installed a new clutch with the large portion of the center clutch disc pointed towards the transmission. Anyway's everything seemed fine until yesterday when a helper mistakenly "pumped the clutch"...

Thank you everyone!

Thank you. However, the photo is the rear drum.

My Model A was converted to Hydraulic brakes in the 1970s I need to service and replace the rear drums and I need help identifying what they are? Please help ID.

My Model A was converted to Hydraulic brakes in the 1970s I need to service and replace the rear drums and I need help identifying what they are? Please help ID

After looking at the pictures you sent, you may be right. I posted pictures below. I tried prying off the hub (red) with no luck. I was afraid of breaking it off. Any other thoughts? Thanks again - Daniel

Here are some pictures of the drum. The id is 9" the depth is around 2.25" There are 5 studs around 5.25" apart. Thanks for the help. Daniel

I am working on a 1930's rail midget project with missing brakes. The rear drum brakes have "8181 KH" or "B181 KH" stamped on them and are 9" id. The backing plates must have been lost before I purchased the project as the car is set up for at least one rear brake. The powertrain is all Ford...

1928 Model A Canadian Roadster for sale. I had to re-list the item because I posted it in the wrong category. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1928-Ford-Model-A-/222503405339? Questions? Call Daniel 248-506-9190

I just listed the car on Ebay but am open to offers and have provided a disclaimer that I may end the auction early. Here is the link to the auction with videos, pictures and a detailed description...

My hotrod motor (a 1937 v8-60 flathead) let go of a connecting rod a year ago during the 2015 Woodward dream cruise. I built the motor over 15 years ago and I decided to rebuild the motor. I purchased a display motor that had parts of Joe Barzda's supercharged Maserati 8CTF Indy car he...