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Just thought I would add this, picked up the transmission today. Had to take that engine too.. forty bucks, needed the starter and breather tube off the intake manifold.

235/65r 16 = 28.00 Dia. = 88 inches circumference = 720 revolutions per mile. At 70 miles per hour and ~2000 RPM would be about a 2.78 final drive, which would equate to about a 3.60 rear end gear.

Sounds like you are looking for a reason to not accumulate them. Then again, from my perspective, if I had the room, and the price was right, I would not think twice about taking them.

Considering utilizing the FiTech 97 FI system, does anyone have any experience with the set up? Initial plan is to put it on a Mercury 4 1/8 X 3.267(+0.80), 1.72 intakes and 1.6 exhaust, .360 lift intake/.370 lift exhaust, 250 intake duration/260 exhaust duration, with LSA of 110. Targeting 8.5...

What would be the recommended final drive ratio be considering today's highways and speeds? Planning on putting an R10 overdrive behind a 59A in a '46 Tudor.

Another update on the '53 EAC. Pulled both heads off the engine today, first time on a Mercury EAC and to be honest, first time on anything newer than a 59A. The 8BA that I had open came with the heads off. The current 8BA sitting on a cradle dolly under my bench, turns over so there is no...

Starting to dive into the '53 Merc. No luck on getting it to free up. so it is time to pull the heads and see what we have. My preparation consists of using a thread chaser on the spark plug threads and then installing M14 lug bolts for BMW's that utilize extra long lugs. This method works...

Wow...

SUCCESS! Have successfully removed the problem child water pump bolt that I could not get a decent bite on with a 12pt 9/16 socket. Used a thin wall 6pt Snap On socket that is slightly undersized 9/16", actually measures 14.1 mm

Thanks Mark, have removed the distributor, currently making sure all the valves are free. Have cylinders filled with ATF/Acetone. Still soaking the sludge in the valve valley with Mineral Spirits, the gunk is slowly turning into a slurry. Once the valley is clear, I will drain the pan and take...

That has already been confirmed. It is a 1953 Mercury 255

The other side broke loose fairly easily. Believe this one would too, if I could get a good bite on it. Those lumps along side the bolt head are not allowing me to get the socket all the way down the head. Too busy to attack it today, maybe tomorrow

Just an update as far as the stuck intake valve on #6. After a week of soaking it (filled the intake port up with 50/50 ATF-acetone mix), I tapped the valve spring assembly with a small ball peen hammer. The valve dropped. All the valves now move effortlessly up and down with a crow bar. Pistons...

Just picked up a special 6 pt 14.1mm socket, Snap On says is specifically for 9/16 rounded off bolts. Measures at .555", will see how it works. Tried to chisel the lumps surrounding the bolt head, just not getting anywhere. Has to be part of the casting, it is that hard.

Thank you, that is my thought also. Seems like a lot of work, makes one wonder if the witness marks on the end of the bolt head were made when whomever installed the water pump.

The mains are the same for both the 59A and 8BA, but the rod bearings are different. The 59A has full floating rod bearings that spin where as the 8BA has insert non spinning bearings (which are what all modern engines use). You have to use the 8BA rods with the 8BA crankshaft too.

Update: Have started to tear down the '53 Merc. Have soaked the cylinders for almost a month now with no indication of loosening up. After removing the intake manifold and bathing the valley in Mineral Spirits for a couple days, the valve springs are now visible again. Note the intake valve on...

Depends on what cam you use. If you use a 59A cam you will have to use a 59A cam drive gear on the front of the 8BA crank. If you use an 8BA camshaft, you will have to convert to the 8BA distributor and timing cover.

They also had one that attached to the steering column. It was used on agricultural equipment. Acted like an assist. We used it on a stock car way back when and it worked well, at least for overcoming extreme caster. Can't remember what it was called though.

Thanks for your advice. Have thought about going the brazing path and still might take that option. My current thoughts are just to drill 1/8 holes at the crack terminus and then bore out. Doing a material analysis at a University lab right now to determine the exact metal composition. A long...