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Need to buy tubes so need some education. Snyders says "The rubber stem tubes end up costing a lot less in the long run since you don't have to purchase all of the additional hardware" What is the alternative to rubber stem tubes? Where should I buy them?

Matt, Wouldn't it be best to get down to bare metal with either chemicals or mechanical? What is "bc/cr"

Does anyone know anything about painting my car with spray cans. I watched this Eastwood video and it looks like you can get a pretty good job.

Does anyone know what the small spring is for? nkaminar: why does the weight need a notch?

Look at the new post

I am assembling my Bendix and I'm not sure what things are. In my photo , the top arrow is a small spring, what is that for? The bottom arrow is a notch on a part, why is that notch there?

I am assembling my Bendix and I'm not sure what things are. In my photo , the top arrow is a small spring, what is that for? The bottom arrow is a notch on a part, why is that notch there?

I called Sherwin Williams and they have what they call a 9K system that is water base that would be good quality. The primer, reducer, base and clear coat would be maybe $2500. This is California and they have many enviromental restrictions which raise the price and restrict what paint they can...

Where do I get a "felt washer or leather lipped oil seal (N.O.S.)" I purchased A-1175 (Rear Hub Seal) from Snyders

Again bobbader, thanks a lot for your great advise. It is obvious you have read mine and other's posts and made great comments. When I post something, I try to do the best job I can and it's obvious that you and others, like nkamina, do the same. I'm going to do what I said on my post 65 and...

Fullraceflathead, you suggested "using several of your fingers working it around the lip". I tried this and couldn't get it to work. Elsewhere in this form someone suggested using the "wire trick" to get it back in. What is the "wire trick"?

When I got it on the spring came out. I used the tool shown. It started a little crooked so I straightned it and it went in fine. I believe I have the correct side up?

bobbadder, I really appreciate your help. To the best of my ability, I have tried all the advice given on centering the shoes. Some say bending the tracks is not good and others say the solution is use SHOE CENTERING PINS TEDS Part # A-2045-FHT. By belt sanding the left shoes I got the left side...

bobbader, if shoes weren't too thick then why couldn't I get the drum on?

nkaminar: no I did not turn the drums. They are steel

Bob C. when I belt sanded them I also "arched" them to fit the drums perfecrly.

So bobbadder, that's exactly my point, I shouldn't need to do anything to get them to fit. So what should I have done to avoid sanding or grinding? So, as you said in post 47, "service brake linings that need to be “arced” to fit new drums" This is basically what I ended up doing but I took more...

I took about .030 off the shoes with my belt sander and now things work fine. I didn't expect to need to do grinding or sanding on either the shoes or the adjusting shaft to get new shoes to work. I think shortening the shaft is something people do based on the fixture that the red book shows on...

You people keep talking about "centering". What can I do to Center the shoes? I find no adjustments.

The Shoes Don't fit perfectly. The ends of the shoes are flush and in the center there is a .020 gap where the feeler gauge is. Is this a problem and, if so, how do I fix it? Do you think this is part of my problem?