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After our latest test drive and not running the electric pump at all, just the mechanical, and after shutting off the motor there was a slow but steady drip from the glass bowl and we could see the fuel was running down from the gasket. Makes sense that would be under negative pressure. Maybe it...

Well, what we have is the electric pump from shoebox central - it is 4.5 psi max, and a regulator just upstream from it. We'll stick with that until we see it not working.

I understand what you are saying. And do not plan to run the electric while running. But would having the regulator set to 2 while the mechanical is delivering 3 to the carb - would the regulator constrain the mechanical pump's ability to suck enough fuel to continue delivering 3 to the carb? In...

Thanks all for replies and comments. The mechanical fuel pump we have was a rebuilt one from Charlie NY that had been built to push 3psi to supply the needs of the Carter WCFB. We will be replacing the cork gasket to at least get that to be leak free. I guess the last question remaining is how...

I am not sure what you are trying to say - that I should verify that it is functioning correctly? Or that I should open it up to learn how it functions? With our most recent run and test, I think I can verify that is functions correctly but we now have a small leak at the glass bowl cork gasket.

Here's an update. We removed the fuel line at the carb and yes the electric pump pushes fuel all the way. But ... the regulator just after the electric fuel pump was set to 4. I am thinking that it is very possible that over quite a few "hard starting sessions", we may have blown out that cork...

Thanks for the replies. The electric is a flow-through model, installed closer to the tank on the frame, it has a filter between it and the tank, and it has an adjustable regulator on it. I am going to check the regulator on it - it might be set to 3-ish - because the Carter WCFB carb we have...

I have an in-line electric fuel pump that we installed to help fill the carb bowl after the flathead sits for a while. But when we turn on the electric pump (before attempting to start the engine), it fills the mechanical fuel pump glass bowl then immediately the gas starts squirting out of the...

We want to run without the stock covers, but with polished dust caps and polished lug nuts. I'm not sure I like those spider caps... We have the lug nuts, and dust covers for the front, but I guess the read doesn't really need dust covers so there is nothing in the wheel center under the stock...

Well - the stock wheeel covers, yes. Hub caps is what I call the axle dust covers underneath the wheel covers. But yes, mine are really tough to get on - a glancing blow with the bottom of my fist toward the outer diameter just doesn't cut it. It takes a really hard smack to get it over that...

Clarification - The dust covers (only the front has them) are easy to put on/take off. The full 1950 wheel covers are a little tough to get off, but do-able... but putting them back on seems to be a problem for me.

I have a couple question on the wheel covers and hub dust caps for a 50 shoebox. What is the trick to get the wheel covers back on without denting them? I'm using a rubber dead blow, and hitting as close to the edge/rim of the cover as I can. But it takes such a hard blow that if I am not...

We have an oil filter canister that was on when the car was purchased, but it is not plumbed - so it is just on there for show at the moment. I know there needs to be an .060 restrictor on the inlet side, but are there certain hose dimensions we should be looking for, and connectors for the block?

Ok, got the thing completely disassembled and spend an hour or two cleaning out the old hardened, gunky grease. Went down the rabbit hole learning more about old grease and how to clean it out than I ever wanted to know. Ended up manually picking out as much as possible, then used acetone to...

We were having problems with the spotlights. 1) very difficult to operate/turn/move them around; and 2) not turning on. We have the electrical part figured out and will be able to get them to turn on. As far as freedom of movement goes, there was a lot of old, very sticky grease in the shaft...

Well Son of a B...! It turns out the fuse block has two spots for a flasher unit. Moved the flasher unit to the other spot and it all works. We blame an ex-boyfriend. Apparently he had been working on the car trying to get the spotlights to work and was blowing fuses - and had taken out the...

probably not the flasher unit at this point ... "We replaced the flasher unit with the same part, and still nothing." We are heading out to check the switch body to ground, and then the switch connections themselves when the lever is activated. I am unconvinced that the wiring is wrong, and...

I guess this wasn't clear enough: "At one point they were working, but are not working now. So, assume the switch is wired correctly. All the other lights function correctly - parking lights (front and rear), and brake lights." I'll try to be more specific in the future.

Would that make sense even though all the lights function otherwise if the directional switch is not activated? Could it be that something in the switch itself is shorting to ground when activated?

If the wiring is wrong, how is it that it worked last year. Nothing has changed. So, if the brake light is supposed to flash - it currently is just turning off, and never comes back on. The front parking lights used to flash before, and now ... no.