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Column lock is prewar Ford as far as can be told. Usually the horn button and wheel best way to pin it down, 36 and before are the cruder type. In 37 the pitman went to roller, steer is easier than the gear type pitman. Look at mac VanPelt's site for drawings and probably part number to...

46 FRONT & REAR axles Front has no brakes or hubs but spindles bones & tie rod. rearend never parted brakes & hubs have torque tube ratio unknown from coupe assume 3:78 at least, spring & bones also, $300 both. basket case OD trans 52-3? selonoids, $50 37 engine $500 Whole bunch of wheels &...

If you have the junker, get the parts. I haven't had to do the worm but the taper bearings & cups, pitman bushings & seal as well as the shim/gasket pack. once you do it up right, you know what you have. I have a 37 box restored in my Av8, drives beautifully.

have an empty case, worm& pitman saft was junk. will need all guts

Just-in-case, number or somehow keep the lifters on the correct lobe in case it is fresh enough, you will not have to get them reground.The open valves may need grinding, but maybe they will not be pitted, so just a lap job? it will be fun

Niagara is the next big thing coming upthis way, I don't go but there are barners that probably do. Look for Ohio Plate too? could be that dumb

Edit BTT

Black & Decker valve & seat grinder, new diamond on dresser, coolant pump system, new belts. Cabinet with pilots stones include flathead 2 drill motors for seat

That is a very cool piece. I have a few old ones restored, use a Sears Allstate right now. Saw one of the 20 dollar popular catalogue paers sold now, just doesn't fit.

I alsoguess stuck valve, probably exhaust if compression is not coming back into intake. pull wire to find out what one? I have resurrected a few sat a long while, valves and seats had rusted some. 37 engine Ran great from the getgo, then started missing. During usual tune up type remedies tried...

no floor rough shell all sheetmetal, fenders and spare pieces,frame 36 rear axle more pictures email, will not load

I want to see it suck that test material back in and straighten it back out, someone must have tried it.

The grease seal is in the hub, just have to get a fancy puller to get to it. If it is leaking oil in there from around the axles, you will have to take it ALL apart, big deal, but I here stories about a seal with correct dimensions that will press in from the outside, worth a try. If it is...

I got a new M1 from Mac Vanpelt. since It's overhauled I saw no need for the longer high volume. Screen too, and I think I had to cut the baffle some.

btt

Clean the screen?

I put my oil filter return line in the fuel pump stand since my pan dod not have a fitting, works OK.

I restored a 39 1ton the steer box was exactly the same as the 37 car steering I fixed up for the hot rod project. In fact the front axle was no different except the heavy 6 bolt hubs, as the sedan frontend, shoes and backplate except a couple more spring leaves. Should have tried a wide 5 hub...

bttt

I don't know if I would want to stir things up too much if it is crunchy build up like some oils do. If it is waxy (parafin base) like pennsylvania oil I would do like Karl said if set on doing it. Pull the tin shields off the center oil tube.