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Whether the crack is repairable depends on its location and extent. I have a G head with a crack in an exhaust valve pocket. I took it to a couple of shops that repair cracks in cast iron but no joy. They couldn't access the entire crack.

HOLY CRAP! Hadda take a nitro pill for that one...:eek:

Here's a DIY method to calibrate your wrench: https://www.wikihow.com/Calibrate-a-Torque-Wrench

You'll be OK with a new one if it's a quality piece. I'd shy away from one from Horror Fright or any made of Chineseum. The secret to keeping one accurate is to release the spring tension when you're done using it by resetting it to 0.

This is just my opinion but if it overheats with the timing set at 12 degrees I think I'd try a little more advance. Setting the timing at 6 degrees has a good chance of making it overheat worse.

Yes, they're classics. Classic status has nothing to do with the number of doors. IMHO the only determining factor is age, generally considered to be 25 years +.

I trust 'em about as far as I can throw 'em, and my arm ain't what it used to be.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZ7ykSfY-t8

Our very own Sal Cicala. You'll find him in the members list in the Community tab at the top of this page. Page 7 under the letter "S".

The Damper Dudes, https://www.damperdudes.net/ , and the Damper Doctor, https://www.damperdoctor.com/. I used the Damper Doctor for mine and am completely happy.

Sounds like a minor box adjustment may be in order, but I would still check the linkage downstream of the box first. Pay attention especially to the the ball stud that connects the Pitman arm to the drag link. They're often neglected and the stud can become egg shaped, causing play. Ball stud...

The Load-O-Matic dizzy won't play well with any carb except the Holley teapot of the type the car came with from the factory. I would rebuild the '57 dizzy, can't go wrong with it.

Resurfacing the manifold would be my next thought; sounds like you've tried everything else...

A one wire alternator will charge at low rpm after you wake it up by raising engine rpm. When you shut the engine off you will need to repeat the process. This can be done by simply driving the car at a moderate speed or in a lower gear.

I have the one KULTULZ suggested on my Merc. Been on there a couple of years with no hiccups.

If it's a GM alternator you may need to goose the throttle to get it to start charging. 800+ RPM is usually sufficient.

'58s weren't as popular as '57s and earlier. I wasn't a fan of the grille and the oval tail lights. Also, 1958 had a pretty bad economic recession so I'm guessing sales were lower than previous years. They've grown on me over time and I prolly wouldn't pass up a good one at a decent price now.

She's a beaut. Great score!

It's RHD. The license plate is not reversed and obviously foreign.

"I've taken off many handles; used this tool I have on others, it worked fine, but on this Ford (54) just doesn't seem to work; I was just seeing if anybody has a "better tool", or a "trick" they used in getting these handles off, sounds like it is what it is and you just have to work at it, and...