Search results

Great driver and hansome 1916 T for sale. Everything has been rebuilt and has a Ruckstell Rear Axle. New upholstery and roof, top boot and side curtains. Starts easily on the crank.

Great 1934 Ford sedan Model 40. Many new improvements and rebuilt components. New interior, new tires, new motor components, drives and stops. Clear title.

Nice 1934 Ford Model 40 for sale. Runs and drives well. Good tires and tubes, many new interior and motor parts. Rebuilt carb, generator, distributor and roof insert. Solid all-steel car. New safety glass. Needs some gauges hooked up yet. Located in Oswego, IL. Clear title. Text Jim...

Danged, I missed it.

I did have the original coil top but opted to use an external coil when I couldn't get it to fire. So, I have both.

Geeze, it has been an ordeal trying to fire my 34. So, while verifying my plug wire order on the 37 distributor the previous guy installed, I see my rotor is black! Does this mean the dude swapped the dizzy for the later model and didn't install the correct rotor?! My car will not start and...

Mystery solved! Turns out the previous someone used the wrong caps which have the tooth in the wrong spot, a way different year. So, the correct ones are ordered and coming. My car would never have started and that's why my plugs were spanky clean- it never started for the previous owner as well.

I think I found another problem, the doofus before me changed the plugs and got the inner caps wrong. My tooth will not line up with my dist housing. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this 34 which shows the two left and right caps?

I actually have a '37 distributor so I did my best to eyeball and be sure that both the caps fit & the rotor brush passes immediately next to the plug spike. I wanted to ask how close the two brass contacts need to be. After lining it all up, I still can't get spark through to my plugs. Darned...

Thank you fellas, I appreciate that detail. I'll correct em today and see how it goes.

On my '34 Ford, I believe my left and right spark plug caps are not in correctly. What's the trick to being sure they line up properly for the rotor to fire the plug contacts? Thanks, Jim

I reached out.

I have a '34 M40 that ran about 5 months ago (for prev owner) but now has no spark. Starter turns and distributor looks clean and newer, but wanted to ask if anyone has tried to add the 6v coil kit to an external coil. The car has sapped most of my funds thus far and can't really afford to get...

I am hunting for a 1934 Ford rear spreader bar with spare tire bracket. I am in northern , IL and would be happy to pay for shipping. Jim

Yep, stuck a tiny screwdriver and lightly took pressure off and the bullet fastener came right out. Thanks to all who helped! I also found the connections on each side of the motor for the horns- they are very frayed and delicate. I'll seal those back up with heat shrink.

Okay I'll give it a whirl. Thanks!

So those are very old and delicate and I'll definitely do damage. Can they be disconnected at the horn itself? There are actually two and they are original from the aging cloth wire- and they attach on both sides of the same terminal.

Oh, okay so don't disconnect em at the horn itself then....

How do you remove the two wires on the horn? On my 34 there aren't any screws but the two wires are sandwiched in there.

Hey guys, working on my 34 horns. I need to remove one and took off the top chrome cover, I see the ground and hot wire- how do they get removed? They seem to be sandwiched between some plates and go in on opposite sides? No screws that I can see. Any help is appreciated. Thanks, James