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Re: FINALLY…T5 WITH Torque Tube in a ‘35-’40 Ford...The WHOLE STORY! For anyone concerned about the position of the shift lever, there is an alternative to the T5, and that is the RTS F150 trans from 84-87. It's a 3+1 as opposed to the T5's 4+1, but all aspects of the conversion above apply to...

My C59A had thick inserts (not thin 8BA type) and came from a Canadian built '47 fordor. I couldn't find replacement shells, so had to change to floaters.

We drive 'em all year round here in New Zealand.

When I first did mine, I used the tinfoil trick. When I fired the engine up I had a noise, so shut it down and pulled the heads. I discovered the milling had altered the relationship of the piston dome to squish area, and I could see the marks where the pistons had kissed the heads. I laid the...

Sharp!

I have tried new nuts and found them wanting. Best course is to find originals.

I have the Stants and they work great. I cannot make my flattie go past 190, mostly sits on 180.

+1 for JWL's wonderful book. The book proves, and I have proved it to myself, that the best mod that can be done is to mill the heads to bring the squish area over the piston down to about 45thou. This provides a useful increase in torque, which is what you are looking for. Bang for buck, this...

Also, it ONLY runs on 110 octane. Good luck finding that in Whykikamoocow on a Sunday afternoon.

Another plug for Ajays here in NZ.

If it's of any help, my setup is like that pic, but I use a Falcon throwout bearing with a curved face to suit the diaphragm fingers on my clutch. I started out with the flat bearing but it never worked very well with the diaphragm clutch. The carrier has a Teflon sleeve riveted in to take up...

They're very similar to the car ones, but the vertical lip that the retainer sits over is not vertical, it's on enough of an angle on the outside edge that the retainer will neither fit nor have any grip if the axle breaks.

Those retainers only work on car drums. I have pickup brakes and drums on my diff, and the drums don't have the right shape lip.

Most NZ assembled Fords were Canadian in origin. It is a colonial cab, and looks like it's on a car frame.

I'll second that. Brian is a top guy, incredibly knowledgeable about what works and what doesn't. He has a "Chevy-eater" flathead engine in his '35 tudor that is a killer.

Sounds like a plan. I doubt you need to even up the chamber volumes, it will make negligible difference on a basically stock street engine. My squish averages out about .050 and each chamber is different. Runs fine.

I seem to remember the Motor City Flatheads project was at one time predicting they would run about $12K or somesuch.....

Wow. I have the new ones, and they're too quiet. I reversed them to make them louder but made no difference. Mine are 22".

Not relevant, but back in the 80s, an Australian dragracer built a block for a hemi out of steel plate. He made a heat treating box out of an old oil drum. I remember reading about it and seeing the pics in an Aussie hotrod magazine.

Hiya Brian. Hope all is well. Yes, Bubbas did do that dissy. It was my fault because of wiring the coil back to front, so I am casting no aspersions whatsoever. I still have the condensor from Bubbas, I only put a new one on because I had it in pieces. I'll save Bubba's one for a spare, or maybe...