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We finally floated ours in a bed of epoxy then after it hardened we bent the tabs in. The bumpers have not been reinstalled so I can't give a durability report.

Brent- It will not tighten and the trunk-wheel well panel sits on the crossmember. The blocks I have are 14x2x1.5 with a 7/16 x 3 inch hex bolt going through the 2 inch dimension. There is a rectangular 1/8 in metal washer on one side and a 1/4 in leather (fiber?) rectangle on the other...

What are the rear body block dimensions for a late 30 coupe? Mine rattle around like BBs in a tin can(no offense:D).

Be wary of those HF towbars any lateral pressure at all and they will twist like a piece of wet spaghetti.

The last bushing hammered out today with only moderate effort after the heat shrinking treatment. Golden I'll keep that freeze method in mind for the next stubborn project. Thanks to you and BoobyG.

After reading Brent's post on heat shrinking metal I decided to try that on the bushing I had planned on drilling. After three heat/cool cycles I hit the bushing with the saws-all, heard a reassuring ping and half of the bushing flew out. I easily punched the remainder out. It's on to number...

How much heat can the perch take. I've been a little hesitant about applying too much, not wanting to alter the temper of the metal. We've started drilling out one side in hope that lightning will strike the other side before we have to take this drastic measure there too. Thanks BobbyG...

What is the correct ID for the rear spring perch? The new bushings I have measure .75 in. OD. which is considerably larger than the .69 in OD front bushings. I looked everywhere but the right place and cannot find the correct ID perch measurements. The reason I ask is that will have to drill...

Atta Boy for Mitch and the rest for helping these folks.

Is there any general guidance about how long and which metals or Model A components can safely be given the home electrolysis treatment? I am about to put my rear fenders in the soup and don't want to do more harm than good.

At the risk of highjacking Rusty's thread maybe some of the engineers here can talk a bit more about the embrittlement issue. Is there any general guidance about how long and which metals or Model A components can safely be given the home electrolysis treatment?

The upside is no recalls in 80 years.

Thanks guys. I am on it but was lost without your help.

I just bought a Modern Model A Shock Kit, used, from the swap section. I was thinking I could use these until I saved enough pennies for the real deal. However, the kit appears to be missing the connection from the lower end of the rear shock to the ? axel, original shock attachment?, sky...

Sometimes posts like Ken's above are so detailed and helpful that perhaps there could be another Sticky entitled Tutorials that would preserve these.

What is the proper seat back attachment for a 30 coupe? My seat is backed by plywood which is screwed to the wood frame between the trunk and passenger compartment. A picture would be helpful if there is one handy.

It wasn't too long after that I was working as a cowboy at $40. a month plus board and room. Fifty bucks was a lot of cash then. I still cringe when I have to break a $50.

Here is a link to the way the tractor guys do it.......http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=993063

Better hope the scrappers don't get there first. Any piece of metal lying around here on private or public property gets flinched for scrap. I saw a truck load of old seat springs go by yesterday.

Asymmetrical. Of course, one of these days I'll ask a question for which the answer is not embarrassing. Thanks guys. At least I now know there are two types of bumpers and have a good idea of the differences between Std and Deluxe.