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Here are some photos of the front bottom seat cushion in my '30-'31 coupe. As you can see it is missing the adjusting knob. It looks like it may have somehow been bolted through the sides. I can't figure out how it was installed. I'm going to try removing the nuts on the underside of the side...

I was looking at my Dad's model a ('30-'31 coupe) and noticed that the running board does not line up with the frame bracket. It looks like my Dad made a hole where the body had one but the frame bracket was not. Can anyone explain why it did not line up? Wrong bracket or running board? Thanks...

It does look like a large steel half-washer that is JBWelded to the end of the cap. I didn't know if that was a real factory part, or something that was creatively improvised. When my Dad got this engine back from the rebuilders some 30 years ago, it had a knock, and a local guy looked at the...

So perhaps someone can clue me in, since I have never seen a B rear main bearing cap - the JBWeld looks like it is holding a section of the cap on - but I don't know if this is part of the casting, or a washer of some sort. I noticed it only had a shim on one side - aren't you supposed to put...

I have a '31 coupe that I want to remove the front seat. There is no adjuster at the center underside of the seat. It looks like it has tracks, but no amount of budging can move the seat. I have looked and can't see where the seat might be bolted to the floor. I've tried tying a come-along to...

The story is that when the engine was received from the rebuilder - back in the 1980's it had a knock. Taken to a local shop who found the main bearings too loose and a rag in one of the oil passages. Also the oil pump shaft cracked. This was repaired, and after that the car would run for about...

So for the mystery of the studs, those are engine studs that I used to support the flywheel as I screwed a long cap screw though the starter mount to walk it off the crankshaft. If you look at my other posts, you can see the other items I have found with this engine. It was rebuilt by a so-cal...

Sorry - the photo did not post on the first try.

This piston probably has about 4 hours of use. Are the marks that look like scratches on the piston a normal wear pattern? The engine had been overheating to the point the starter could not turn it over. Thanks, Todd

I pulled the flywheel on my model A engine and found this - It looks like the rebuilder used JB Weld to form half of the end of the crank end bearing housing. Is this done very often and an accepted repair? Todd

Is the Ford works still in business? If you search the web it says they are not in business and the google photo of the location has a big sign that says "For Lease." If they are not out of business, they should correct the bad information.

I've posted other photos of the engine - search for Rubatoguy as the poster. When received the engine had a knock and was taken to a local bay area shop - Mal's A sales, who discovered the oil pump broken off just past the entrance to the block. Also the center main had 6 thousands clearance...

What a clever solution. Thanks for solving the mystery!

Can anyone tell me why you would do this?

Is it common practice to use a screwdriver and hammer to secure the timing gear nut? Or is there a proper tool to use? Seems the rebuilder got a little lazy maybe?

The teardown of the newly rebuilt engine (30 years ago) continues. Take a look at the oil pump drive. Can anyone tell me the clearance reccomended in the photo below, and if the top piece should have groves on the underside for slinging oil? Clearly things do not look good for 10 miles running...

Okay, for the curious, I dug through my papers and found my Dad's correspondence. (The re-builder was in LA not Portland.) It seems that when he got the engine, he heard a knock and took it to a local re-builder who found that the oil pump housing was fractured at a point just above the block...

Can someone give me a reccomendaton for a scale with low margin of error to verify the weight of engine parts? THanks Todd

Taking apart my Dad's B engine that was rebuilt by a very large antique engine rebuilder in the early 80's, never ran correctly, (overheating & bad oil pump install) then sat for 20 years. The engine maybe ran 10 miles. Taking off the rod caps, this is what I saw. I take it that these are not...

Here are the rod caps. The closer one is the one from the off-center piston rod. Note the wear patterns. Also, if you look on the side photo, you can see the babbit is not smooth - don't know if that matters or not. Todd