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This is the company that makes the Warford today: http://www.laynemachine.com/Products.html

I have used them and they are good for maybe 10,000 miles. Very good tires, easy to mount. Yes they wear out faster than black tires but of the white tires they are the best.

Some need it, some don't. Helpful stuff here: https://modeltfordfix.com/time-to-re-tire-model-t-fords-and-clincher-tires/

There is no torque spec for anything on a Model T Ford. No torque wrenches existed at the time. You tighten the nut as tight as you dare and then install a cotter pin.

It might work for a Model T but it was for some other brand of car originally.

It can cause problems if it's backwards like the ammeter would read backwards and if it has a modern generator cutout it might fry that so don't do that. Do disassemble every place that the current must pass and make sure every connection is clean bare metal.

You don't have a short. You have an open. Likely a dirty connection at one of the terminals.

We used to have a Champion spark plug cleaner / tester. It used a fine glass bead. Unfortunately after cleaning the porcelains of the plugs were etched which caused them to foul almost immediately. Fortunately Model T spark plugs - the original kind - are two piece so that you can easily take...

Got it.

Sent you a PM.

With my old knees it is a lot better to just pull a spark plug. That way I can see when both valves are closed. I use a plastic stir stick from Micky D's on top of the piston. That way I can check it over and over easily with no fear of scratching anything with the little plastic straw. You...

It's very easy if you leave the wheels on the car. Removing the wheels from the car makes it a 2 or 3 man job. Here's how: https://modeltfordfix.com/fixing-a-flat-tire/ Also: https://modeltfordfix.com/time-to-re-tire-model-t-fords-and-clincher-tires/

I've changed many hubs. It never required removing any spokes.

They may have been made when they were being made properly. I have a half dozen KW coils with manufacture dates in the 1940's. I sent them to Ron the Coilman and he was able to rebuild them and they will test just like a real one from the 1920's. Some of the earlier plastic coils are OK too...

The new ones have less wire in them so they are not as powerful as original Ford coils. They are fine for an electric fence though. Also they come with the wrong value capacitors so if you do buy them you would need to change the capacitors to have any chance of running well. Then adjust on a...

Franklin was one of the best selling cars in the days before assembly lines. All of their cars were air cooled. They had a reputation of being trouble free. Ford built a few prototypes in the early "letter car" days. No telling why, but they remained experiments that were never produced beyond...

You only need spoke press if you are changing spokes. To change a wheel from rear to front you only need to change the hub. Take out the bolts. Put the wheel on a 5 gallon bucket with the hubcap part of the hub facing up. Use a rawhide or dead blow plastic mallet to drive the hub into the...

That's what I do. A 5/16" (hole size) thick brass large area washer fits with no noticeable play but allows the axles and differential to operate properly. The fiber washers are always gone when I tear the differentials apart. I don't think they were ever a good idea.

I find it also helps to have both wheels off the ground even if only one is to be removed.

Demountable wheels were first available in 1919 if your Model T had generator, battery and starter. Regular Model T's without the fancy electrical gizmos came with non - demountable wheels as always. This continued until 1926 - you had to pay extra to get demountable wheels. In 1927 Ford made...