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Happy to hear this news.

Thanks for the info guys .

Does anyone have any input on overdrive units that are available for early V/8 Fords? A friend has a basically stock '39 coupe that he would like to make more highway-speed friendly.

Very late '37 tudor sedan. It's titled 1937 and has 1937 on the glass, but it has '38 style standard front sheet metal and rear fenders. V/8 60, runs, drives and stops very well. Drive it anywhere. Older repaint peeling in spots here and there. Very straight and solid body that has not been...

Could also be a valve hanging or closing too slow (binding), but the cooler exhaust doesn't really seem to fit that scenario. The exhaust temp issue is where I keep thinking valve timing and/or firing order as Ford blue blood stated.

Boy, that is weird! It almost sounds like a valve timing issue. As far as the firing order goes, did you check it for your specific engine? As I recall there are different firing orders on early and later 302s.

I stand corrected, I did not use the stock 292 mounts, I used the FE mounts that were on the FE that I installed.

The original 292 mounts should work fine. You might have to turn them around for the 289 to move the engine back towards the firewall, but I'm not sure. I had to turn them for an FE installation in my '56. You should be able to modify your trans mount to work with the 4-speed. I used my original...

Great looking '55. Good drive-train combo, has to be fun to drive. I have a '56 Customline with an FE and four-speed. Nothing like a four-speed!

Very nice!

btt

1965 Mustang coupe. Low mileage, fuel injected 1990 HO 302 5-speed. 16'' American 5-spokes, Vintage Air/heat. Classic Instrument gauges, recent interior, frame connectors. This was a very straight, solid car to start with and required no floor, rocker or torque box repairs. It is not a 100pt...

It probably has a Allen head bolt head. I seem to recall that being the case on some of these.

Definitely check the dist bushing. As far as the 5psi, you should be ok with that. Connecting the battery neg to the engine is a good Idea, I would also run another cable from the engine to the frame. This will not affect starting, but it will ensure proper negative through out the electrical...

A "Y" block would be nice, but also a HO302 is an easy, cheap swap with plenty of power. Love the '54 coupe. You'll have to let us know how the Cavalier rack works out. I've toyed with the idea for my '56.

More good advise here. If your cables are bad or too small or the grounds are bad, it will crank over, but you may not get enough spark out of the ignition. I had a '40 Ford that was difficult starting( turned over well) and one day while trying to start it, a friend saw a slight whiff of smoke...

The carb should really not lose fuel from the float bowl overnight. If it is dripping down then it might start hard because it is flooded. If this is the case you need to get to the bottom of it. You don't want the cylinders flooded with gas as it will wash down the cylinder walls and casue...

Sounds like maybe the carb is bleeding down or the fuel in the bowl is evaporating. Before you start it the next time, remove the air cleaner, look down in the carb., pump the accelerator and take notice if any fuel is squirting from the primary jets. If not, the fuel could have evaporated due...

Disregard my first response. I read T10, but was thinking T5(?). A T10 will bolt right to it if it came from a Ford. A 3 or 4 speed bell housing is the same.

There is one of the Mustang parts outfits that makes an adapter for a T-5 to a stock FE stick bell-housing, but you'll have to search around on the net to find them as I lost the web address.