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Thank you, I will go with Dextron.

It appears this whole posting was lost in my computer. Thanks everyone for their input. I found a complete original setup & it is installed & working. The cylinder leaked so I installed a rebuild kit & it still leaks a bit. What fluid are people using in these units now?

In case someone has not heard, the Pre War Swap Meet in Chickasha, Ok. has been Cancelled. see;http://pre-war.com/

I have tried the major ones with no results.

There has been much discussion in the past about repair parts for Boyce Motometers. Restoration supply can supply the thermometer for the Sr. size but not the Jr. Has anyone found a source for the Jr. thermometer?

I have not been inside the N engine & certainly hope we do not need to any time soon. It is not a modified K crank since the K is a much longer engine. It would be a custom built shaft.

This car was built in 1907 at the same time as the K model. The fellow who owns this N also owns a very nice K touring. The N has not had much driving since it arrived here after a 9500 mile trip home. Our weather will not clear until April. We will see then how it actually performs...

Yes this is the same car. There was only one built. The axle rebuild & some other work is mainly preventative maintenance, the car is up and running well.

Thank you both. I will use a brass disc even if I need to make one. The end play without a washer measures .180" . It seems I am working with a model T carrier & N axles in the N housings & the N torque tube assy. The axle has obviously been reworked before. It is under extra stress...

Thank you, I am rebuilding a prototype model N rear axle using T parts where they fit & making others. Originally it had fiber thrust washers but had Babbitt installed at a previous rebuild. I am using bronze washers now. What is the thickness of the T fiber thrust disc between the axles?

Can anyone tell me a measurement for the side play of the stock T differential carrier? This is governed by the thrust washer assembly.

I had a pair of very small but bright LED lights mounted under the rear body of a 1911 Buick & they worked very well. Following motorists need to see 2 brake/tail lights to understand what is going on. The same car has a pair of tiny Halogen driving lights concealed under the acetylene head...

It sounds like the connection between the T & the Warford may have failed. It might be a good idea to remove the top of the Warford to see if its input shaft is rotating. If that is the problem it may be repairable without removing the engine assembly.

Be sure to clean out the threaded holes in the block - sometimes the bolts bottom out & torque correctly but are actually holding very little.

CHP inspector pacifier; https://www.harborfreight.com/36-piece-14-in-steel-letternumber-stamping-set-63677.html

Most new production tubes I have used have the brass stem molded into a rubber vulcanizing pad. Outwardly they look like the old style. It should also be noted that the bridge washer is very important on either style of brass stems. Without it the stem is easily pulled out of the tube in use.

Brass tends to work harden with age & use causing it to become brittle. If one screw has broken for no apparent reason, more are likely close to breaking. As well as for the reason Royce stated, always use new, correct screws & replace them all.

Ron, we must be politically correct it should now be a 2 person top!! With that cleared up, see; http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/247182.html?1321929600 That sums it up well. Hurrying or trying it alone can be costly.

Recently I was getting all sorts of spam emails wanting me to open links. Once I stopped trying to open the MTFCA site the spam totally stopped. Coincidence??

A Model A has the setup you are looking for & lots of parts are available.