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If you can make a new panel, try removing the vinyl and heating it up to mske it more plyable. Maybe then you can stretch it back over the new panel

Yes, between auto trans and a 302 thare is a plate

We owned a '41 super deluxe fordor, complete, running that had been off the road for 12 yrs or so. We completely rebuilt it starting in '95. Found out it took twice as long as expected, needed twice the tools and cost twice as much as expected!

Check that hood pin is completely latched. Sounds like pin is not dlwn into latch mechsnism to fully latch. Loosen lock nut on the pin and unscrew the hood pin in increments to get it fully latched

Our '41 speedo had same problem. Pulled the speedo out, found a small hole packed with some cotton like packing. Spun the speedo in correct direction with a battery drill while dripping light oil in and quieted right down, no noise or jumping needle

Urethane sealer they use on newer windshields i would think would work. I have bought it at parts stores in a caulk type tube

When we had our '41 ford with a sbf 302 i replaced all the fuel lines with ethanol resistant hose. We put 200k+ miles on it and never had any problems listed in above posts. Couple times i pulled the top off the carb to check condition. Not a speck of damage. The ca wouldr sit all winter with...

Miker 98038.....oil seperator not needed if engine is good. Every shelby mustang put out has an oil seperator on the PCV, including 2024's. I installed a PCV in place of the road draft on my '60 292. Keeps oil out of intake manifold

"I never saw a Ford with that SS trim it was used on Mercurys". Our '41 fordor had s.s. trim around both front and rear windows, s.s.vent window frames, s.s. edged whiskers around the side glass but black painter rear quarter windows. later changed rear quarter windows to later s.s. framed...

got it KULTULZ ,thanks. I did have DV and LOM mixed up

Hum, I have a '60 292 2V without a dual adv dist.(one vac line to dist) had trouble with the carb and installed a later '80's model 2V carb. connected to my dist. Works great. are you saying it should have a D.A. Dist?

ditto on Kiwi shoe polish

well I just googled fiberglass resin. fiberglass resin is sold and also epoxy resin. I used fiberglass resin

no, actually fiberglass resin

I've used pc-7 to fill cracks. one wheel was rather porous so I coated entire wheel with fiberglass resin. sealed great. covered with body filler and sanded

plain geometry. you know width of your hood. enlarge mercmans pic and divide the hood width in inches that matches your hood width. use that inch scale from mercans pic to determine size of opening and location. may have to make a guestimate in corner radius

install as close to tank as possible. Is bypass just pumping back to the tank? If so will not register on a gauge, just pumping around in a loop.

what I did on my '59 was wire the lever on the trans in the engaged position and take it for a ride. you will know immediately if it is in O/D. will be very sluggish, that will rule out mechanicales in the trans

when I change rear brgs I drill a small hole in the retainer ring part way thru, split it with a chisel, place a rag over the brg and hit the outer race with a hammer to break it off. heat the inner race a bit with a propane torch and drive the race off with a chisel. works every time. Torch on...

On our '41 with 302 and 30A GM alternator we added halogen headlights, sound system with amp, driving lights,elect. wipers, heater and never had problem with alternator keeping up