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Looking for a 1940 deluxe hood ornament either repop or one that can be rechromed. Thanks. PM me with photos and price.

Update. I sent my coil, condenser and distributor to skip. He had it back to me within one week. I finally got around to installing it today and it fired up like the day it rolled off the show room floor. Thanks Skip

I got skip to test the coil, condenser and distributor. They all check out. I’ve gotten ******* with some other issues and I have yet to get back to it.

It appears that you and I are in the same boat. I’m following this tread as well as the one I have going.

Just coving all my bases before I pull the distributor.

With the wire attached to the solenoid, it kicked over, started then died. No spark at plugs again.

Ok. Going to give it a go right now. I’ll keep you posted. Thanks again.

This side? I just don’t want to make a mistake here so I’m double checking.

Thanks for the reply. A wire from the + side or - side of the battery? It’s a positive ground system.

I have several plugs removed and using the solenoid button to test. No snapping hot spark at the plugs but when I was grounding the plug I got zapped pretty hard. Some current is going to the plugs. My finger,hand and arm are still numb.

I was able to get back to it today. The battery maintained a consistent voltage of 6.3 volts while being cranked. All grounds rechecked. Which improved the sluggish starter situation. I placed a bridge wire on the resister under the dash. Still no spark at the plugs and a very weak spark at the...

Ok. I thought that the 30 second test wasn’t enough. I’ll test it out tomorrow. Thanks for the info. I went to my old Napa store today. They replaced the old tester with a hand held too.

I took the battery to advance and battery plus for a load test. Both said the battery was fine and fully charged. When I put it back in the car the starter winds down like the battery is dead. Any ideas. All the wires are new and correct. I’ve checked the contacts. Could the starter be the...

Another point is that it’s an older optima red top battery. Any thoughts if this could be the issue?

On the charger im putting out 6.8 volts at the battery terminals. But that’s an excellent point because it goes down very fast.

My 1940 expert and friend, Bill Clatterbaugh, passed away in 2013 and I am in need of advice. My 1940 Ford is original with the A block 85hp. Because of family priorities it was 10 months since it was last run. I drained the oil as well a emptying the gas tank. I put fresh gas in and drove it...

Let me start by saying I'm a purest and want a correct and original 40. I had both on my 40. I stayed with the radial. For me driving down grooved/crowned roads they made a huge difference. I would never go back to the bias tire. (the radials are not correct but they are much safer).

I agree will Bill: "It is important that you have good hinges and springs. There should be no wear at any of the pivot points. If there is, the adjustments will be (more) difficult at best and the alignment will not last." The repop hinges are not good. The bends are a bit different. I bought...

Its an easy lock for a locksmith to get open and make a key if the glovebox doesnt work.

Ok.I understand. It's very different then the Ford.