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Will N is right. The interference may be caused by not having quite enough gasket in the housing though. I know it's a lot of work, but I'd start over if it was my car.

a title matching the number on the frame is probably worth as much as the frame

I agree. Roll it on the flat tires if you can, winch it up the trailer. Makes sense to see if the tires hold air first, but I doubt they do. The tubes get pinched when the tire goes all the way flat. Sounds like a fun project

I don't see anything wrong with the oils in the shocks. I'd put the caps back in and declare victory

I saw a TV show that removed the head by putting some rope the number 1 and 4 cylinders and turning the engine over. It worked on TV. Has anybody out there tried this? I'd be afraid of breaking something

most of the parts houses carry a shock oil that is pretty similar to hydraulic jack oil. Most are ISO 32 to ISO 64.

I'm trying to get a 29 Model A started. The flow out of the gas tank is minimal. I've removed the shut off valve. I know the car was parked for a number of years in a hot location, and I suspect gas evaporated leaving something that looks like shellac in the tank. As far as i know, the tank...

Doesn't what comes in have to go out through the exhaust valve? Seems to me the only way to get more out the exhaust is to either make it bigger or increase the pressure, no? Is anybody out there running an engine like this? My first inclination is to have the inserts redone back to stock.

The Model A engine I’m working on rebuilding has larger intake valves and stock exhaust valves. All are inserted. What’s the point? I’m a big believer in stock engines. That said, is their some advantage to this configuration?

I'm rebuilding an engine that has a significantly burnt first cylinder exhaust valve, valve seat, and even the piston is burnt closest to the valve. I had the same problem on my own Model A years ago. I'm told unleaded gas is tough of the exhaust valves because it burns hotter. I have no data...

I bought what turned out to be a H & H Engine at a swap meet about 10 years ago for $100. Turns out it had about 1/4" front to back play in the crank. Took it apart. They had machined away the trust bearing portion of the rear main rabbit, and installed a small split washer on the crank. The...

I tried googling Hansen's Model A Garage in San Diego and Arlyn Bieber. Maybe I'm missing it - -but I don't see the place you are recommending.

Can anybody recommend a machine shop in Southern California? I've got some burnt valves in my 29 Coupe and want to put inserts in the block. Probably hone the cylinders at the same time. Thanks

Guys, Thanks for responding. What I have is a Model A Chassis, that much I'm sure of. The pick up bed I have looks like the box on 28 A's in photos I've looked at. It has a "L" bracket on each side on the bottom front that doesn't line up with the frame. The comment that the subrails used...

Will a 1928 Pickup bed fit on a 1929 Chassis?

Working on 31 Cabriolet basket case with a rotten package tray (along with a lot of other things). Hoping to find a better one at a swap meet. Will a 30-31 Coupe package tray fit? any others? - -I'm assuming a 28-29 tray is different. Thanks for the help.

well, I'm pretty computer illiterate, but I'll try to get a pic posted in the morning

I know a little about Model A's, and bought a pile of A parts that included a T crankcase with a brass plate under the front nose. Can you tell me what year T's this is appropriate for? Worth anything? - or should I put it in my scrap iron pile? Thanks in advance for your help