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Thanks all! I am going to look into bulb wattage and perform some electrical measurements. I’ll be out of town for a week, so it may be a bit.

When I bought my ‘28 Tudor 3 years ago, I installed new harnesses, replaced the 6v bulbs, replaced the 6v battery and observed 10A charging at all times with accessories off. When applying the brake (single tuna can light) or turn on the dash light the ammeter drops to 5A charge. However when I...

I noticed a significant torque increase with my 6.5:1 Snyder’s cylinder head. I also went with a Vortex dual updraft intake. I’m satisfied with my ‘28’s performance. Everyone commenting in the increase is correct. Even 10hp more is very noticeable.

Well, it’s been years since I posted about my headlamp switch plate and I am going to need to replace the bak-o-lite contact plate in my 1 light, 3 position switch. Again, the switch is the 4 contact 1st gen. Where might I source the contact plate? I have looked everywhere.

I’ll second that! I had a ‘49 8N and hated it for all the same reasons. Hence, the past tense… And of course nothing similar, engine-wise, to the Model A engine - other than being a flat head.

I agree. I drive my ‘28 Tudor here in the dry 113°+ Sonoran Desert in AZ regularly. No A/C, but windows down and plenty of water.

Good day! I am wondering if anyone has a reference on stock ride heights for a 1928 Tudor, as well as measurement points? Thank you.

All good points.

Good question. No idea. I read something about gmail accounts being hacked so I am wondering if that email process allows them to see if others have a gmail account as well, so it becomes easily hijacked or something.

Found. Please Delete

This may help... https://www.modelaparts.net/dynosheets.htm/dynosheets.html

There have been several scams using fake profiles with recent join dates, no posts and no info. Recently I posted a wanted ad and got a response from a “member” who sent me to another email to contact and payment requirements. Beware as it is a total fraud. davestuart3864 is one and...

WANTED: Good rear spring. Please DM if you have one you’re wanting to sell.

Any updates on this thread?

X2 I bought the NuRex tool and found that it gets it close, but a test light nails it for me too.

At some point that original model A will need to have something done. I look at it as many historical sites in a state of preservation, doing and replacing things as closely to original as possible. Do any of us do the same with our modern vehicles? I try to stick to OEM, but my 2008 Mustang GT...

Mine had almost 9/16” play (Yikes!) and I bought a leakless pump with the correct end play. I just installed it yesterday.

Here are some pics of what I found to lead to the conclusion I did. Also, I am wondering if anyone knows what the S and B stampings in the block deck surface may indicate...

I noticed the distributor bolt is missing and upon further inspection, realized the cast boss is broken off at the top and side of the head. So as I began to research replacement cylinder heads, I realized that the head is a Ford script USA service replacement. With all this in mind, I began to...

I had a similar issue and found my horn wiring grounded as the leads to the brushes were touching the horn motor housing.