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I've sent him PMs here, as well.

I've tried shop@model-a-ford.com, information@model-a-ford.com, and brent@model-a-ford.com, in addition to his cell, shop, forum PM, and forum email. Haven't had any luck. I was wondering if someone knew any other way.

Since my previous post was deleted, does anyone know how to get in touch with Brent Terry?

I have a rod setup that I made using 1/2" all threads and 1/2" tapered lug nuts to center each rod in the bores. I've verified that it is bent. It's just the bending back process that I'm not comfortable tackling.

Should have mentioned that in the original post. There are no reputable shops in my area that I would trust to do this work. I've had experience with most of the heavy truck repair shops where I am, and I hate even sending our current era trucks to them for any service.

Does anyone know of any shops in Louisiana, east TX, or even down to the Houston area who has experience straightening a front axle? I'd even be open to shipping it if not too cost prohibitive. My replacement axle needs some straightening done to it, but it isn't something I'm comfortable...

This may be a stupid question, but would the heat generated by welding in the wear spots on top be enough to affect the malleability that you described above? Also, what can I source to use for centering cones? Rods won't be a problem to get, but I don't have a lathe or access to one to make...

Thanks for the videos and relieving my worry of the wear being structural. Does anybody or any shop actually repair these as a business or sell good, straightened axles on an exchange? I don't really have the setup to do this myself, and it would be much easier to get one from a shop that...

I just obtained a used axle to replace my original that had worn holes for the spring perch bolts. After looking at it more closely and comparing it side-by-side to my original, there are a couple issues that either will or may need addressing: The first is the wear on the top of the axle from...

I managed to luck out and find a used axle for sale just a few miles from me. I picked it up yesterday. I brought my new spring perch to test the holes for wear, and this second axle had very tight perch holes like it should. There are no clubs around me and not many Model As or parts pop up...

These are new bolts that I'm working with. Just for giggles, I put the old ones in, and they gave the same small amount of wiggle as the new ones. Makes sense now why I was able to easily pull both perches out by hand after removing the nut. I was expecting those to be rusted and frozen in place.

I'm not saying any of that. This is referring to the spring perch bolt that goes down through the wishbone and axle that attaches the perches to the axle. There's no bushing in the axle for this originally.

Does this weaken the axle any significant amount? What type of metal would the bushing need to be made of?

Is a bushing made for this?

I'm in the process of rebuilding everything in the front suspension, steering, and front brakes and have come across something I'm not sure about. While test fitting my new parts and checking for wear on the old ones, I noticed that the spring perches have a slight wiggle to them when inserted...

X 1,000,000!!! This thread should be locked. The situation has progressed to a productive, collaborative, and cordial place between Paul and Terry, and no amount of opinions flying around in the meantime can produce anything useful until the actual data and results are posted. Some on here...

I may just have to wait (hard for an impatient person!) for Eaton to make one. They told me their lead time would be a minimum of 4 weeks. They supposedly build from the original specs (except for the differing thicknesses of each leaf, but apparently not one does that like the factory did).

Since all the vendors, including A-Springs and Eaton Detroit Spring, are out of stock of the USA-made springs, all that's currently available are the import springs. Are there any specific problems I would encounter by using an import front spring vs a USA one?

Re: Found loose shims & unused cotter pin in oil pan - What do I need to check? (w/pi I'm happy to report that all the rod clearances are within spec. range, even if slightly on the tighter side. I used Plastigauge to check it. Rods 1, 3, and 4 were somewhere between .001 and .0015. Rod 2 was...

So how would that work if I need to add sealant to the groove but also have been advised to soak the rope in oil? I should note that it wasn't solid lead or solder before I wire wheeled it (I only put it in the groove twice). The pic of the NOS oil pan in the link posted in the #2 reply in...