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$50 plus shipping

1939 ford model 78 trans case. Case is empty, no cracks. Bearing surfaces look good. $125 plus shipping.

Nice 1939 ford transmission tower. 91A with the 3” fork. Very nice shape. SOLD

Main shaft, speedometer drive, and rear tail housing/bearing retainer. Convert your closed drive trans to open using ford parts. $200 plus shipping.

Bump. Found a V-8 emblem, still need the f-100 side hood emblems.

Yankee self cancelling turn signal switch. It does go back to park when you turn the wheel. $65 plus shipping. Thanks.

Sold

Model A chassis. No engine/trans. What you see is all that is there. Pickup in Romeo, Michigan.

Ford 9 inch rear axle. It measures with the drums off approx. 57.5” axle face to axle face. 50 1/4” backing plate to backing plate. Could be a ‘58 wagon rear axle. It would need to be gone through.

Looking for 1957 F-100 hood emblems and the V-8 grill emblem. Driver condition preferred to match truck. If you have any for sale please let me know. Thanks.

Re: 2 wet “ish” plugs Well I took the cap off and rotor and cleaned them. Used a very fine small wire wheel in my dremel to clean up the contacts and it’s idling back to normal. Perhaps those two plugs got fouled do to the contacts not being cleaned? I do have another set of heads that I want...

Re: 2 wet “ish” plugs It idles right off the bat like this. Doesn’t need to get warm to notice it. I think I am going to pull the distributor off and have a look inside.

Re: 2 wet “ish” plugs New spark plugs showed no change.

Re: 2 wet “ish” plugs Condensor is new from Midwest early ford. Nothing wrong with cap, rotor, wires. Maybe I should just not worry about it as much as I am. This used to idle like a sewing machine and know it has a “spot” where it breaks up for a second. Don’t notice anything while driving it...

Re: 2 wet “ish” plugs NGK AB-6 plugs. I put all new plugs in it. All have nice spark. Just an erratic slight stumble when it is idling. Do not notice anything at higher RPM’s. The idle though used to be like a sewing machine. Now there is this little blip but it is only seldom. Best way I can...

2 wet “ish” plugs Been driving my ‘36 LB for almost 5 years now and I noticed a very slight miss at idle recently. I do not know the history this engine as it was given to me by a shop owner that replaced the cars entire drivetrain with new. I inspected it and had the heads off. I is sleeved on...

Just talked with Steve and he is going to convert the horn over to 12v. I know an original sparton horn is a nice thing to have and not modify but a new 12v horn will not look right on a car with its original paint that has seen 96 years of abuse. Thank you all for your help. Another reason why...

Back trim for headliner on early 35 pickups and driver side windshield garnish. Parts were pitted and have been repaired but they would like fine installed or they could be taken further. $50 plus shipping

I found his email in another thread, thanks. I sent him a message as my car also has an EA laboratories wiper motor that has been disconnected since switching to 12v. Looks like he does them too. I will let you know what he tells me.

I read that to convert them to 12v you use 24g coated rf wire. Original horn fields were 20g, wrapped 45 turns. When using the 24g you wrap them 100 turns and this will allow it to be used on 12v systems. Anybody try this method?