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I'm sure NADA classic price guide does show a Mustang high value of 32K, the writer added the bit about value to add intrest to the story I imagine. I don't think he met to imply this Mustang was worth that much.

Got one, Thanks you all for the help!

Looking for a nice to restorable grill for my 40 PU. Thanks

Thanks for the help. I hadn't looked at the regulars that close, didn't start messing with these till after my body guy had the regulators installed. He had taken the pins out to get the glass in. Gee, funny how much better they work with the pin back in place!

Hey, I'm putting the door windows in my 39 Coupe today. New glass, all new felts, ect. Original regulators but they have been cleaned/ lubed and appear to be in good condition. Can't seem to get them to work smooth. When I roll it up the glass sits too far forward (1/4" or so, edge of glass...

I had a bad experiance with Denver, not only the chrome wasn't the best they've ruined a couple pieces. FWIW I've been using Electroplating of El Paso the last few years and been very happy, good pricing, good turn around time plus they give you an option of "house chrome" or "show chrome" with...

Just picked up a 40 and it was hot rodded in the early 60's with the typical at the time hacked out x-member in the frame. I need the two sections that make up the x. I don't need the center cradle. They can be cut close to the rails, I have a few inches unmolested out from the rails to splice...

My trailer is a 24X8. So happens I picked up my new 40 PU project a couple weeks ago and snapped this pic. As you can see 8' is plenty wide enough and a 20' leanth would be fine as I had 4' in front and behind. Of course if you plan on hauling anything the extra size is handy if you got the...

I'm mounting a cab off a big truck (had the 4) onto the regular 32 frame and the blocks appear to work. Cab looks level and hood/ grill all fit. I assume this is what your saying, I can use these blocks?

Umm, yes. My 40 doesn't have any rust and doesn't need nor ever had a panel replaced. Of course I jumped on it when I found it, ones like mine are rare indeed, even here in the desert. I use to think Ford put rust holes in the tailpans from the factory, seemed like they all had rusted...

Scuff the dp up with some sandpaper (I use 80 grit) and go right over it any plastic filler. The polyester spot filler would work well on rust pits. I've never seen any repro panels that didn't require bodywork anyway (some a LOT of bodywork) and most don't fit as well as originals, unless your...

Here's the pic you wanted. All stock except a 2" dropped axle, stock spring, mild add ons to a 59AB motor. Easily put back to bone stock if/when I want to. FWIW the running gear/ drivetrain is all rebuilt but still has 50 year old paint & upolstery. The pic is from last year at some drag races...

I like and drive both an A and a 39 Tudor and building a 40 Tudor right now. I like them all but if I had to choose one I'd have to go with the latter. Being 6'4" tall I just fit so much better in the bigger cars, hince I enjoy driving them much more.

Klicker, I know how you feel, and I'll go against what the majority are saying here. I have built a 39 Deluxe Tudor and building a 40 Standard Tudor right now.Both are too nice to turn into a street rod but I'm an old hot rodder and just can't seem to keep things stock! The 39 I just added a...

I've never had a problem with bondo going over silacon bronze done with a tig. Can't state it as fact but it's my understanding it's the flux used in "brazing" that caused the problems with the bondo not sticking, something that use to see a lot in the past when brazing with a ox/acl tourch was...

I used the smallest tip I had ( I think it was a 0) and if it was real welding rod I used 1/16. Most the time in those days I used bailing wire, about the same size maybe slightly smaller then 1/16. Much softer the welding rod though, worked and filed easier and never had problems.

I've cut up and customized many a car as a professional custom car builder for the last 30+ years and today I just can't do it to a nice original car that is all there, something tell me they just don't make them anymore and everyone we cut up means one less nice stocker left in the world. I'm...

Those computers scan the paint and give an "approximate" match. Up to the paint store (or the painter) to tint that to get an exact match and yes, I think that's a dying art. Back in the 70's I was a full time painter and you had to be able to tint and match paint and I got to be good at it...

I'd bet it has a Ford crank in it since it has a rebuilders tag unless the rebuilder used a Mercury block to start with. Only a hot rodder or someone trying to get more performance would swap a Mercury crank in a Ford motor, rebuilders could care less, they would do a quick rebuild and sell it...

FWIW I'll chime in with my 30+ years rebuilding these old cars professionally. I hammerweld everything I can even if it means cutting out the inner panels for access and welding them back afterward. Always a butt weld, overlaps causes too many issues. I know overlap welds done with a mig is...