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The hobby is never going to die. I'm only 24 and yet have been wrenching on old cars and equipment for a decade. partly out of necessity and partly because i despise modern machinery. i think the museum business and a lot of classic car dealers are causing mayhem though.

Excellent work! work it back and forth easy, don't force it. it will loosen up nicely. on the other hand don't make it so loose it wants to advance itself while driving down the road;)

Take the shift tower off if you haven't already and peak down inside. like others have said don't get smart and try to start the engine or you will be cussing about it for months. i'd also take the clutch inspection cover off and look down at the clutch. something might have broken off and is...

if you don't mind making a mess, put a little PB Blaster or 3-1 oil down into the upper bearing and also spray a little on rods at the bottom of the steering column where the springs are. let it soak and re-apply for a while, maybe even 24hrs. see if it moves after that. also take the time to...

i run 10W30 Diesel oil from the local Tractor Supply. partially because it's thin enough to start flowing into the bearings quickly on a cold start and because it's dirt cheap. i do have a partial flow oil filter on my A and i put the full 5 quarts on the oil change. it goes above the full mark...

those plugs are just about perfect. wire wheel 'em, pop 'em back in and drive the devil out of it.

First of all, let's start with some of the basics and work up from there. when you are driving, how much advance are you running, and are you running with the GAV or gas adjuster valve open? on a stock A with the carburetor jets at factory specs it should run a bit on the lean side. if too rich...

take the intake manifold and dunk it in 5 gallon bucket with about 1-2 gallons of gasoline or kerosene and let it soak. shaking the bucket in a circular motion sort of like a washing machine will also help to break loose the crud. take it out and either spray with brake parts cleaner to strip or...

I'm in the same boat as Y'all. I'm trying to sell my 53 Chevrolet 210 4 door. it has a few add ons and ever since i got it i've sunk far too much into it and frankly i will never recover what i put into it. just trying to sell is extremely difficult. Had it on Craigslist for a while, only...

I'd try shutting the GAV completely shut once it's warmed up and see if that alone will fix your problem. the A engine was designed to run a touch on the lean side and the GAV was intended to give a dose of extra fuel for low altitude and cold running. i start mine on 1/4 turn and completely...

Buying a Chevy as my first car instead of a Model A. It's safe to say I saw the light and i'll never trust anything but A's and T's again

Here is the best solution for you, this video from the Dallas Model A club back in the 80's is the best way to make the A stop perfectly every time. my advice is to put the A back to stock and listen to what is in the video. https://youtu.be/3GFMJ7iiWiI?si=AVJwgw9JgXoZpKmI

apparently you haven't been paying attention to A prices as of the last 10 years. correctly restored A's are not getting any cheaper and some are cracking $30,000 plus. you can buy certain Packards for less than that in restored condition. the last 5 years alone has driven A prices higher and...

I'd say never scrap any engine block. you can't exactly drop by a ford dealer and pick up a new one. one day there will be very few blocks left and it will get to the point where any block regardless of damage is worth the effort. Nobody cared back in the 40's and 50's when they were scrapping...

I've stitched an A block that had cracks near the number 2 & 3 exhaust valve seats. not an easy job but i got it to hold nicely. i used material from a bad cylinder head to make my own plugs so there is a 100% match of material. if you try welding or stitching with different metal things will...

the shoes are off set relative to the axle, basically one shoe is sticking out too far causing the drag. try removing only one shoe while the plate is on the axle. use a zip tie or any piece of wire to secure the top of the remaining shoe to the backing plate. my guess is the same as Lawrie. one...

I concur with the others. save yourself the pain and grief of worn drums and hubs. buy yourself some new cast drums and unless the hubs, particularly the rears are mint, get them too already swaged on the drums. Snyder's sell the drums and hubs as full assemblies and they are already turned...

during that test is the emergency brake band on the car? something tells me it might not be the shoes themselves

Done it both ways. i like doing it as a unit mainly since i can make sure the clutch is aligned correctly on the bench before it goes in. that being said there isn't a wrong way to do it. the only nerve wracking part is watching the fenders and firewall when it comes out since the transmission...

just because they made thousands doesn't necessarily mean it's the best way to do something. Henry made almost 5,000,000 A engines and every single one left the factory with babbitt bearings. and if we add the T and the B into the mix we are talking over 20 million engines with babbitt. and for...