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A few years ago I read about this test. Fiddle with the points to get a bright blue high voltage spark at least 1/4” long. Leave the the key on and the points closed or shorted. How long do I wait before checking the spark again? If the spark is the same then the coil and condenser are good. TIA Ian

Twice this summer my starter switch stuck in the on position. Fortunately I have a kill switch. I now want to install an insulator kit (A-11450-X). I removed the switch but I cannot get it apart without deforming the copper terminal. Any advice would be appreciated.

Sorry I can’t post a picture. I mean what Mikes Affordable calls part # A47902EXT.

I just bought the new pins that position the seat 2” further back. I forgot that I installed seat belts many years ago. With difficulty I was only just able to make everything fit. Hope this saves someone else from this problem.

Years ago I removed a relay similar to the one Brattons sells (red,yellow and black wires). I saved the relay and now I want to use it again but I can’t find the instructions. Can anyone help?. Thanks, Ian

I had a little accident while painting the carb and now I have a damaged power tube. It’s almost broken off where its pressed into the upper part of the carb. Here’s my question: does the tube really have to extend down 1 1/2” to work properly? This puts the end 7/8” below the gas level.

I have a set in my car right now. Aside from being one piece they are identical to the last version of the C-4. They are a little too cool and may soot up with too much low speed driving.

When I had that problem I tinned the tube with soft solder (tin and lead).

I had the same problem a few years ago and Fordbarn came to rescue. Time it the usual way with the timing pin only set the spark level half way down not full retard.

The screw that goes into the condenser may be too long if you leave out the washer.

How do you attach the choke driver on this carb?

The p.o. of my car installed a generator from a late model flat head. The voltage regulator is mounted on the firewall. I’ve had over 40 years of trouble free driving. I have never seen this set up on another car but I would certainly recommend it. Yes it’s incorrect, but I have all the benefits...

That bronze rad emblem is correct for Ford of Canada cars for 1930 only. I’ve seen lots including on winners in fine point judging

I read about a coil test that involves getting a bright blue spark from the secondary wire, then leaving the key on and points closed and doing it again. How long do I wait between the two observations?

What speed are you shifting at? I get the same result as you if I shift under 20mph.

The folks who offered suggestions to my dilemma deserve to know the outcome. Yesterday I read the thread “ no spark” and there it was. Would you believe I left the rotor out?

Spring is here and I went to start the car. I always clean the points to begin with. Next I shorted the points with a screw driver and got a bright blue 1/2” spark from the high voltage wire. Put everything back together then got in the car, turned on the gas and hit the starter. Starter worked...

My car came with a voltage regulator when I bought it over 40 years ago. I wouldn’t dream of changing it.

Bruce, I never even thought of that, but I can safely say no diode, no problem. I just leave the dash light on and it only comes on when I put the lights on.

I hooked up my dash light to the wire going to the tail light. Now if the parking lights or headlights are still on when I turn the key off I got a visual reminder. No goofs since I did this.