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Wow, this is such sad news, and took me by surprise. I only met Penny when Brent and Penny hosted a Model A gathering at the shop a couple years ago. Both were very gracious hosts, and I had such a good time. My condolences to you and your family

The cam gear mark should fall in line with the right side of the keyway in your picture. Your's right now is on the left side as you face the picture. The cam gear should have a mark. Look behind the oil slinger. Wonder if someone installed the crank gear backwards, as the mark should face the...

Yep, my temporary front axle assembly on my 28 had very loose king pin bushings, but the correct toe in, and it never had a hint of shimmy.

Same here, and that's why carrying two 3 to 6 foot clip leads comes in handy.

I used an oily rag to wipe down the bright plated parts each fall. That kept them looking nice.

"His collection of hit and miss engines was a real treat to see." They are such fun to watch and to listen to them running. I still have a few, but had more before the thieves moved in.

Time to buy a lottery ticket. You sure got lucky!

"I run into Model A owners all the time who are not qualified to work on their own cars." Whoa.........Just because they aren't qualified to work on their own cars is no reason to run into them! LOL

I agree. And if all the hard work is done, why didn't he finish it? There's a reason he didn't finish it, and he only will trade for a ready to drive vehicle.

For sure, and it will also save many blocks from cracking during the winter months.

I agree with John, and about 20 years ago I made my own clear cap by using a piece of thick Plexiglass. It makes a good diagnostic tool.

Turn it upside down and blow out the junk shown in the picture.

I forgot about that pin. The original was a solid pin, but Bratton's roll pin is a better idea.

When I bought my 31 Town Sedan it had no compression also. It sat in a garage for several years, and I found the teeth were stripped off part of the cam gear, so it didn't rotate. Watch the distributor rotor to make sure the cam is turning.

I can't think of any roll pin. Where is it located? The only pins I can think of is the two dowel pins for the cam gear.

When I read "jump timing", I thought you meant can the gears change due to the cam gear moving forward and out of mesh with the crank gear. The answer to that is no, but the spark timing will change due to the camshaft moving forward and rearward some if the spring is broken.

The repro instrument panels I've seen have the lower holes wrong, so you're lucky to get 3 screws only installed. The correct original popout switch for 28-9 does not have a seperate rear cover like the later popout.

I also like Kroil, which cost me $18 for the last can. Gibbs is also a very good penetrating oil for about the same price.

After soaking the stem top and bottom for a day or two, then use a thin Vice Grip to grab the bottom and see if it will turn and drop down. Slow careful back and forth motion on the vice grip might do the trick.

I found one in my burn mess today, but when I squeezed it to check the temper it was soft and useless.