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Yeah, going by measurements, I thought this one would work better, but the spring is unbelievably stiff. The original one, that wasn’t broken, had to stretch maybe 1/2” when installed. This new shorter spring, and also stiffer, was impossible. I tried to make it work as is, it wasn’t possible.

Thanks! I’ll give that place a try today!

Well, I thought this would work , but the new springs are WAY too stiff and short. No way that it would work as is. I tried heating and stretching, which worked, but afraid the spring might be too brittle from heating it up, and snap or lose tension. I took it for a drive , and all is good, but...

Hey thanks! I ordered a 6.5” last night. The openings in the shoes that the spring goes into is roughly 7” apart, so I’ll give it a shot. If a little tweaking is needed, no problem. It’s the end of the driving season here, so wanted to figure something out for the last few weeks of the season.

I might be able to get out there later, but did find this pic on eBay.

I know that exploded view is kinda tough to see, but I think it’s the 2035. It looks a little different as it’s broke in half and the hooks in the end appear to got ground down. Must’ve been broke for awhile.

Oh boy! If they weren’t around 20 years ago, imagine finding one now! eBay showed a few NOS springs similar to, but nothing exact. Thanks for looking! :)

I took my ‘62 Meteor out for a drive yesterday. I heard a slight grinding on front passenger side while stopping. I found that strange, as the front brakes aren’t that old. Pulled it apart today and the front passenger side drum had this spring loose in the drum, it obviously snapped. Problem...

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=339670

Do you have a “sock” in the tank that is clogged or rusted. That’s exactly how my ‘62 would act when the pickup sock clogged up.

Re: Horn “fade” on a ‘62 Ran a wire to each horn, and they worked fine. Took the relay off and the connections looked OK. I pried the cover off of the relay and the contact did have some corrosion on it. Took a little 800 grit to it briefly, and bingo! Horns sound better than they have for...

Re: Horn “fade” on a ‘62 Thanks guys, simple enough, but honestly I don’t think I’ve ever worked on a horn in 45 years of playing with cars! I’ve never heard of a horn tapering off either, so figured maybe this happened to someone before. Yes, I have a high and low pitch horn. Thanks for some...

Re: Horn “fade” on a ‘62 Well, I guess I’ll order a relay. Don’t know what else to try.

Horn “fade” on a ‘62 I’ve never had a car that did this. The first time I hit the horn it works, if I hit it a second time it works, but sounds weak. The third or fourth time it won’t work at all. Is this the relay acting up? Thanks for any insight.

Ah! Thanks! In the 40 years I’ve owned the car, I’ve never adjusted or paid any attention to it. Now that I’m putting it back on my engine I was thinking “What IS this?”

Putting my newly rebuilt engine in I noticed a line that I’m just curious what it is for. The car is a ‘62 Mercury Meteor. It runs from a fitting up by the throttle cable, runs along the top of the intake manifold, then down to the power steering pump. I can’t figure out why a vacuum line would...

Thanks guys. The cam and lifters came today. Now if it wasn’t zero degrees outside, I’d be out in the shop!

Thanks guys. I just didn’t want to get bargain basement lifters.

I found a cam and lifter set to run im my ‘62 260. I e-mailed the seller and asked what brand the cam and lifters are. I was told that the cam is Melling and lifters are Elgin, which are made by Melling. With the quality issues these days I figured I’d see if anyone has had any issues with...

Thanks guys. Checking Erson and Isky websites it looks like the lift on those wouldn’t work with my valvetrain. I COULD go with screw in studs, but they’ve been there for almost 60 years now and haven’t moved yet. I have a car to “go fast” in, this one is just a survivor type cruiser. I’m...