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I use 1/4 " p1pe and heat it with torch and it will melt through and leave a smooth neat hole.

If you have to take the back seat out to unlock it , maybe you can get that neighbor and stuff his butt in the trunk to open it. LOL

That is the way I done mine and it worked for years. Maybe still working. I do not remember amp of the reducer. :)

The only flathead Ford that I ever owned that did not overheat or cracked block was a 47 coupe with the flathead 6. It was not great for gas mileage but it would out run most stock V8s.

I recommend the Sun machine as was pictured on the far right. I bought mine new in 1973 and still have it and it still works well. It does not have a battery compartment. You just hook the cables up. Marv

Super real is right about that.

I was told that the radio did not know if it was positive or negative ground. I just put a voltage reducer in line and hooked it up and done the same thing with the gasoline heater, Voltage reducer is about $10.:)

Steel is the only way to go. I bought fiberglass and ended up giving them to a friend that did not care about the cracking and repaired them. Then I bought steel and am very happy with them. :mad:

I would start by making a convertible out of it. I would love to have it to repair for fun.

There will be a noticeable difference alright if you try any fast driving in curves. The *** will try to get in front of you. Been there and done that. Be careful. :p

At the very least, the points.. Maybe all 3. Look for a liquid coming out of the condenser and coil. If no liquids you may have lucked out.:(

It worked didn't it? LOL

I have found that the 6 is more dependable. No overheating, no cracked blocks, run just as fast and just as much power when both are built stock.

Try Lebaron Bonney./

No trick that I know of. I would spray some P B Blaster into the key slot and into the pin hole and work the key in and out and turn right and left and try the procedure again.:).

A vacuum leak can cause this.

It is important to check the dwell at the recommended rpm. You set the dwell at 26 cranking the engine with the starter to set the dwell first. Then check the dwell at the recommended rpm. If it is not correct then correct it by cranking it over and set with the degree difference. You were going...

600 rpms is for a standard and 500 for a automatic. sorry about that. I was a mechanic at a Ford garage when these were new but my memory has slowed down.:)

The dwell should be 26* at 600 rpms. Set the timing after you set the dwell. I hope this helps.

The front of the fenders need to come up. Shim the inner fender mounts etc.