Search results

On my 1930 Ford Model A, I am noticing that the distance from the ends of the front bumper back to the wheel are different on each end of the bumper. This suggests to me the possibility that perhaps one of the bumper arms may have been bent in the past and not completely Straightened back to...

Well, I finally got my fender repaired. I found a shop near my home in Hilton Head South Carolina that had experience repairing fenders on vintage vehicles. I saw examples of his work and it was beautiful so I decided to give him my card to repair the crack in the fender. it turned out that the...

Are there any real differences between the front bumper for a 1930 Model A sedan and a 1930 Model A truck? Will someone please explain to me what differences, if any, exist between the two bumpers?

Brent, you always seem to give me such good news.LOL I appreciate your information and and honesty, but it certainly does leave me confused. All I know is that I want to do a quality job on my left front fender. Originally I was told that the crack repair Could be done without even removing the...

I have a crack in the left front fender of my 1930 Model A coupe. I considered repairing the crack, but obviously there has been some rather extensive repair work already done previously to this part. Now I am looking into the possibility of purchasing a brand new steel fender, I will not...

I have a very similar problem on my 1930 coupe. A small crack appeared on the driver side, front fender in the middle of the “eyebrow“. Just a couple of days ago I took the car to a body shop to look into repairing the crack, and this is what the technician described for me as the recommended...

I noticed a small crack in the front edge of the driver side Fender beginning in the front of my left front fender on my 1930 Model A. The crack is mostly in the bead at the front of the fender in the middle of the “eyebrow“. The crack has resulted in the arch of the fender “peaking” like a...

After all this discussion about Rivet, and how sometimes they rotate in their mouth, I finally thought of a solution. I may not be the first one to think of this, but I haven’t seen anything in print about this method. I decided to a “keyway“ in the lip of the rivet I wanted to immobilize...

I was always taught that the thickness of the nut should match the diameter of the bolt. I am using 3/8 inch bolts to mount the seats so I will use 3/8 thick steel strips and tap them 3/8 to match.

Again, thanks for great suggestions. Maybe it would be better to use screws to attach the steel bar to the car body rather than rivets. It’s more work, but perhaps better in the long run. Instead of the cage nuts, I will drill and tap the steel bars to act as nuts for the bolts attaching the...

I appreciate all your responses. I have read everyone of them and thought carefully about everything you guys have said. I have finally decided how to handle this situation. I will remove the two seats, install two lengths of steel bar, length wise under the floor of the car. The two bars will...

To clear up a minor misunderstanding, the floor in my 1930 Model A is not wood. The floor is a modern steel floor. It is for that reason that I could use rivet nuts if desired.

To Brent, I had thought about using .25 x 1.5 steel bar underneath the cabin floor and tapping it to receive the seat bolts. I realize that using the flat bars would be very sturdy and also strengthen the floor. When I considered the cost of materials at nearly $100. In addition, I don’t always...

I have a steel floor in my 1930 Model A Ford. At present the seats are held to the floor by bolts that go through the floor with a nut underneath the floor. Yes when I want to remove the seats, I need a second person with a wrench underneath the car to stabilize the nut while I remove the bolt...

Russ, what you described in your post to be exactly the problem that I am experiencing with my car. I have a good gut feeling that if I carefully use the wedges on either side of the body bolt and fairly careful that I will be successful in gradually Moving the fender away from the body. All I...

I apologize, but it was just this moment that I saw the response from “Randy in CA”. Randy, I like the way you think. I wish I could answer your questions but, unfortunately, I purchased the car three years ago from the widow of the original builder. The main reason I decided to install welting...

Well, I appreciate all the comments and suggestions that have been made. Here is what I am planning to do. First, I will jack up the car and remove the wheel. Next, I will remove all of the hardware that attaches the fender to the rear running board. Then I will remove the inner fender brace...

Please allow me to clarify something. I get the impression when I read some of the posts that some of you feel that I was planning to use wedges or prybar on the outside of the fender against the painted surface. That is not what I intended. I was planning to use the wedge on the inside of the...

Yes, the car in question is the car in my signature.

Two or three guys who left comments in this article keep mentioning padding the wedges that are used. I assume that using a pad is to help prevent moring the paint job. My plan is to remove the rear wheel with the axle jacked up off the ground, which would give me access to the inside of the...