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Yes he does!

Works great. I have had good luck with the bucket method shown in post #7

Thanks guys. I bought the Vintique kits from Model A Medic. They look like they may have everything I need for the job. I guess we will see.

Is there a step by step writ-up on changing the felts and channels? I can't seem to find anything.

The spring is only used with a fuel pump. Gravity feed-no spring. BTW you will love the B carb when it is right.

I use baby powder.

David White. $105/ea shipped. He is a member here but I can't remember what his user name is.

I really like the 21" European Classics. Smooth ride

After working on a part that doesn't show over the last few months. The tacky feel is like a very thin film on the finish. Sands off and cleans up easily. After waiting a month or so it is still hard. Takes spar varnish fine.

Pete, sounds like a cool project. Some take longer than others.

I use one. Mostly with Simple Green Aircraft cleaner. Easier on aluminum parts.

Terry, Just how much temp difference are you seeing?

He has one for an oval speedo.

Go to Jamestown Distributors website. I found a lot of info on products there. I am re-finishing parts on my Huckster and am using Total Boat Gleam marine spar varnish. So far so good.

I think I would just fabricate a hold down bracket.

I completely rebuilt the brakes on my 30 Huckster. They worked great. Then I decided to install Ted's kit. The car stops just as good but has a different feel that I like a lot! I can't really describe it but it seems like you have a more precise brake pedal control. I am a big fan.

Thanks for the writeup. This is one of my upcoming projects.

Thanks guys!

OK, since I couldn't find an adjustable drag link to buy I measured my drag link at .629". So I ordered a 5/8"-18 left hand die nut (already had a right hand die). and a 5/8" adjusting sleeve. Was thinking about cutting out 1" or 1 1/2" and threading both ends. Anyone done this? Is this about right?

I intend to drive both of mine more.