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The flathead era converters are smaller, have fewer bolts that are spaced further apart and a smaller and longer crank shaft guide.

The horn wire connects to the main harness at a yellow pigtail located close to where the two green wires exit the harness going to the stoplight switch. (between battery and brake booster)

Before you have it fitted you might check that there is a little step machined on the inside of the ring. When searching the vendors for this part quite a while ago I noticed that CASCO's catalog read "with correct machined step," the implication being other vendors might not. (At least that's...

Make one panel out of clear Plexiglass. Easy to see location of all holes.

Take another look. Your switch is rectangular with two straight slick sides. The passenger example shown has one curved side, with sculpted indents to locate and hold the left and right positions. On the thunderbird the position indents are built into the top of the steering column.

CASCO Thunderbird parts lists a correctly re machined ring gear for $75. Other Thunderbird vendors show them for about half that price, but I suspect they are part of a run made several years ago that, although useable, did not fit very well. As noted above by Rotorwrench you will need seals to...

There is no rod for manual transmission. Automatic rod differences are determined by year of car (or year of bellcrank used). Your bellcrank is correct for 1956, which you have. The bellcrank pictured by dmsfrr is correct for 1957, the major difference being the attachment point for the...

Here you go... IMG 0767.jpg

The L bracket looks like a homemade replacement. There appears to be too much offset. Also there are two jam nuts holding it in place. The original bracket is threaded and only uses one nut on the underside of the bracket. With the correct offset there would not be enough room for a nut above it.

The extra steam holes drilled in the block between the center cylinders could have been added later, but my bet would be the block is the same vintage as the heads.

O'Reilly stores have a section for after market instruments, and on the display wall you will find a pack of adapters (3 or 4) for about $10. Both the large, '55/'56, and the small '57 are included. I believe they under the Equus banner.

Since you say that the 5 and 7 exhaust valves were very tight and that there was very little tension on the springs, then I would say you have severely recessed valve seats. If this is what has happened then you have effectively lengthened the valve stems.

Use the key on the column for ignition and install a push button in the dash to engage the starter.

There is NO o-ring on a Fordomatic dipstick tube. The tube to pan seal is by flare connection.

Don't try to bend the bracket, it looks fine as is. The piston does seem to be pushed out to far, the narrow part of the piston should not be visible outside of the main body. (compare to left valve body in earlier posted picture) I think that it has been assembled wrong. What was happening at...

Well that's unfortunate, sure felt the spring would be the culprit. I still feel that the transmission is seeing more throttle pressure than is really there. First I would double check that the control rod is adjusted as short as possible and also that the spring on the detent at the bellcrank...

A little tip that you may find useful when it comes time to reinstall. If you replace the stock slot head screws with equivalent size socket cap head screws, a flat head allen wrench (not ball end) will hold the whole assembly, making it a one handed operation.

You're welcome.

Some reshaping of spring may be necessary.