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Going to miss it this year.

Tap the raised side down so both sides are even.

I believe the advance noted by Van Pelt is distributor degrees which would be 22 crank degrees.

I mounted my 36 roadster on a 39 frame because I wanted hydraulic brakes. You do need the 36 front crossmemeber. Otherwise no other problems.

Are the points adjusted properly?

Yes

I should have said ignition system. The light I had was a relatively new unit with an inductive pickup. If I remember right the distributor was a Mallory electronic crab style.

Sorry, but it does matter what type of distributor.

My friend is a mechanic for Wisconsin Lift Truck and he's the one that told me about it.

I had that happen a while ago. My timing light that I had been using would not work on an engine with an electronic distributor. Borrowed a friends light and it worked perfectly. I have both a Sunpro and a Snap On that work well.

I notched a screwdriver

got to see Charlie at Hershey this year,

With no load on the engine, You won't get enough flow through the venturis to get any advance.

I think you have something wrong if you only have 55 psi compression. Do a cylinder leak down test to determine where the problem is. Try oiling the cylinder walls and retest to see if the compression comes up.

I would start a little below the mark(advanced)

I've talked to Charlie several times about this situation. I prefer to run power valves so I don't run rich at lighter loads. I find this the way to go.

Those numbers are actually of little use in determining your real compression ratio.

The 59 series engines had a 10" clutch. The 10 1/2 was used in the 8BA engines, so you probably have the wrong year flywheel.

I have never rebalanced after leaving that ring off., which I do on all my builds. Engines still as smooth as can be.

Indeed, very sad news.