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The battery in my 29 Roadster went from working fine yesterday, parked it in the garage last night, and this morning it is totally dead (0 volts). Won't take a charge. Got it from NAPA about 3 years ago. Can anyone recommend a better replacement battery?

I'm in the process of refreshing the rubber in my stock rear motor mounts. I ordered new rubber from Bratton's, but I didn't order the three (each side) steel spacers that go through the frame (like I should have). I have the mount back in place now with all the bolts in, but not tightened. Upon...

Anyone know where I can buy a door glass for my 1956 Victoria without buying the whole side glass set? I replaced all my side glass like 10 years ago with green tint with Ford scripts. I think I got it from the Crown Victoria Association, but they don't appear to be selling parts anymore. I...

I'm finally biting the bullet and going after the frame VIN (located under the left front body mount, hopefully) of my 1929 Model A Roadster. New law in Texas says you can't sell your car unless car VIN matches Title VIN. My engine number does not match the title VIN. I'm pretty sure the frame...

I have a 1929 Model A Roadster with a build date on the firewall of July 1929. I know 1930 and 1931 cars had the Vehicle Identification Number stamped on the frame (as well as on the engine original to the car of course). I don't know if the 1929 frames were stamped though. If they were...

My 1930 Front Fender has multiple bead fractures and botched “repairs”. I noticed that Snyders has a “Fender Bead Repair Panel” as a replacement for the entire side of the Fender. I haven't seen it at any of the other vendors. I'm thinking that instead of using it to replace the entire side...

I've been having vapor lock problems with my 56 Ford recently. I've had this car for 16 years and never had vapor lock problems before. I'm wondering if it could be due to more ethanol in the gas than previous years. Or, if ethanol in the gas even has anything to do with vapor lock.

I have my 1930 Briggs Town Sedan disassembled to the extent that I can see and get access to a lot of the wood. The wood is good, but I'm wondering if there's something I could put on it to make it last longer while I have access to it. I recall that Bill Hirsch "Miracle Paint" claimed to be...

I was trying to order some more RestoShop Epoxy Primer, but can't locate it on their website. Anyone order some recently, and if so could you furnish a link to it. In case they quit carrying it, does anyone know of a good alternative that will work with their other RestoShop paints? Thanks.

Just finished taking my 1930 Briggs Town Sedan windshield apart. There was some rust thru in the outer skin (as shown in the piece I cut out in the first pic). I thought I could make another piece and weld it back in, but the interior structure is quite rusty and I suspect that is the case...

I recently had my 29 radiator re-cored and I'm concerned they may have installed the new core about an inch higher than the old one. I took some measurements on the old core and I measured 18 1/2 " from the bottom of the top tank to the top of the bottom tank (core height). I don't think I...

I'm getting ready to repaint my 1930 Town Sedan with minimum disassembly. I was wondering if I could replace the tank to body welt by just loosening the tank clamps a bit - without removing the tank. Has anyone tried this? Thanks, Bill

I just finished replacing the control arm bushings on my 1956 Victoria. The car has radial tires and I'm wondering if there are some better alignment specs to use rather than the factory specs (which were, of course, for bias tires). Thanks, Bill

I'm finally getting around to replacing the leaking heater core in my 56. It's been disconnected since I've had the car and I just purchased a repo (advertised as capable of 300 psi. It does have much thicker tubes than the original). I'm having a problem trying to determine the correct hose...