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I'm working on an engine for a relatively heavy 1931 Slant Windshield Town Sedan. This car will be in a lot of stop and go and less than 40 MPH driving. Because of that I feel more low end torque could be better than high end horsepower. The camshaft I have is a Snyder's Touring grind. The...

The rear Radius Arms from a 1931 Town Sedan have a gap at the bottom were the stamped steel meets. Would it make sense to stitch weld the seem? Maybe 4 or 5, 1/2" long welds.

Does the older style ring gear carrier with both halves the same have any inherent issues? Would it be better to locate a newer one with the different halves for a rebuild I have in progress?

Is the slot in the distributor cap supposed to act as the stop for the advance lever? On the one I was working on yesterday the stop in the distributor body was off from the slot in the cap when fully retarded. Should this be left as is or is it better to file the slot to better match with the...

I hate to reopen the tire balance discussion again but i've read all of the old threads and have not found anyone talk about this idea. I have gone thru all the wheels I have (no tire mounted) and sorted them by radial runout and wobble to get the best five. However in doing so, noticed the bare...

Has anyone painted a Model A using TPC Global Restoration Shop Paint? If so what color(s) did you use, what type of paint and what did you think of the color match?

We are working on a late year 1928 that a friend of mine just picked up. While pulling the engine and transmission we discovered that the u Joint inner cover was not there. Today while in search of an inner cover we took another U Joint cover apart that had been in a friends barn for years. It...

I'm working on a 1958 Fairlane with a 332 engine. The car has a bad duel action fuel pump but does not have any vacuum accessories. We would like to replace it with a single action pump but the pictures in the Dennis Carpenter catalog for that year of car all seem to have different looking arms...