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I've been using this B Police Head for over a decade. I had the infamous crack 'repaired' with high nickle rod but it didn't hold. However, not sure how important it is to worry about it. There were never any symptoms, and it always ran great. I've replaced it with a Snyder's 6.0 while doing...

I bought the two-row radiator I've been using in my 30 Tudor from my local Sears in about 1976. (How cool that you could still buy parts at the local Sears parts counter?) Occasional overheating lead me to buy a 3 row from Bratton's a few years ago. I'm just now installing it now while giving...

Take a look at the indentations in the top of these rear spring leaves......I assume this is wear. Because they are so deep, my inclination is to replace the rear spring rather than disassemble and try to grind these out. I'm interested in your thoughts......

55 years after I replaced the rear shackles for the first time, one of them is no longer taking grease. So I decided this was a great time to pull the rear axle and take the opportunity to spruce up the undercarriage. However, the spring spreader doesn't seat well on the rolled spring eyes...

I'm chasing a low thumping knock that comes and goes. It mostly shows up under load in high gear when cold, but it's not always there. So I'm reviewing my bearing clearances, etc. The new Burlington crank and babbit only have a few thousand miles on them, installed by (the late) Herm Kohnke. I...

I have never had my rear axle apart; I keep oil in it and it's been working fine for many decades. I'm about to start some major work which will include removing the axle from the car: I'm replacing the shackles among other things. How can one decide if the axle should be disassembled and...

Time to freshen them up!

About 100 gentle miles on the rebuild. Newly poured rods on a new Burlington crankshaft. Highly reputable builder known to many on this forum. Full flow filter. Began to knock like heck. This happened a year ago but after all I went through for a no-holds-barred rebuild, I was too beartsick...

About 100 gentle miles on the rebuild. Newly poured rods on a new Burlington crankshaft. Highly reputable builder known to many on this forum. Full flow filter. Began to knock like heck. This happened a year ago but after all I went through for a no-holds-barred rebuild, I was too beartsick...

How do you remove and replace the front oil pan bolts while the engine is in the car? I ended up loosening the rear mounts and jacking up the motor. I still had to use a 1/4" drive to access them because the front crossmember is in the way. It was a real hassle. Any advice?

SOLD. It's in perfect like-new condition. Only a couple of hours on it. It's a wonderful head. Other motor problems are forcing the sale. If Charlie Yapp had any in stock this would be $550 for the head + $90 for the cap & wires + $10 for the plugs, so you're saving a good $150. Shipping cost is...

Trying to choose between installing a 5.2 or 7:1 head. Anybody use a 7:1 for 'normal' driving? What are the pros and cons in your experience?

I'm trying to replace my cam and lifters without pulling the head. Is it possible? The springs still load the lifters even with the keepers removed, and to remove the springs I will have to remove the head and lift the valves. Any ideas, or will I simply have to bite the bullet and take off...

Sold.

I'm running a Stipe IB330 cam with lash set to specs. It seems to be (and this is subjective) that there is a lot more noise from the tappets than I had with the stock cam. Anybody else notice this or is it just my imagination? I wonder if a different ramp makes a differnt sound, for example.

This is a reproduction hood that I bought from Snyder's back in the mid '80's. You can see it is not shaped quite right. Has anyone had any experience getting one of these to fit? I'm wondering what's involved. Any suggestions?

I'm in the final assembly of my motor rebuilt by Herm Kohnke that includes a Burlington crank and a Stipe IB330 camshaft. It's beautiful. Now for the $64 question. I have to choose the head to put on it. As you can see from the picture, my choices are a large B police head (freshly skimmed to...

Two rebuilds with a local antique engine rebuilder and the same result: after a few thousand miles the mains cracked and the car started making noise and bleeding oil. Third time I took out the block and sent it out of state for new babbit to a real pro I met here on the Barn, and ended up also...

I installed a lightened flywheel + new V8 pressure plate, but got so much chatter that I had to pull the motor again. Ouch. I found heat marks on the pressure plate in one quadrant (the upper on in this picture): And using a dial indicator I found that the finger opposite the heat marks...

I've got a crack running from the #1 exhaust valve seat to the water jacket. Any advice for repair? Does anybody know of a shop not too far from the Southwestern Ohio area that might be able to tackle a job like this?