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I use aluminum paint too, it dries and acts like glue. Copper Coat doesn't dry and lets the gasket slip around, in spite of what art deco says. Spray a light coat of paint on both sides of the gasket, let dry, then spray a heavier coat on and let it get tacky, then bolt the head down and...

The valve kit that you gave a link to shows stock sized valves, which is fine for what you are doing. I've run a much higher modified engine that you talk about and have produced 107 horsepower, with stock size valves. Many guys use bigger intake valves, but they are more expensive and not...

A couple of years ago my tractor stuck a valve open, after fixing that I started putting MMO in its gas and my Model A, no further problems.

Ryan, When making the change could you make it easier to post a picture? BTW, I'm not old. I'm only 89.51, and not stupid, just a little on the dumb side! Thanks for all that you've done for us in the past! Jim B

The Burtz has 5 cam brgs, bigger main and rod brgs. Neither should affect gas mileage.

20 on the road. The HC head will help. I get 20 in my tudor with a hotter cam than the Burtz, a bigger than stock carb, and an overdrive. I cruise at 65 MPH.

Right! First number on my heads is the ratio, followed by the serial number. All of mine, with the exception of 2, are 7:1

I have no idea, I just told you all that I know about thae.

On original Winfield heads the first number was the compression ratio. The wings were on heads made by Rosemead Antique, and were aluminum. He painted them to make it easier to identify them when shipping them. The most common colors were; yellow for his 6:1 heads, red for his 7:1, black for...

At 6'3" my '30 tudor was very easy to fit into, after I moved the seat back about 3". I also had a '31 widebed that I owned for 65 years. I fold pretty well, so it was no problem either, until I had a stroke and couldn't keep my foot on the brake pedal! Any year tudor is my recommendation...

Re: B manifold boss — what is it? And a place on the firewall where linkage or same would have been.

You might try wrapping some tape around the brass plug lead and attaching it there.

Re: “B” Grind Cam That is right. There were three 5 journal cams produced. The first one had all 5 journals finish-ground to the same diameter, the second one was finished but to a smaller diameter, the third was just rough turned, and smaller to make engine assembly easier and quicker. All...

Re: “B” Grind Cam All B cams are not the same! The first ones had .305 All B cams are not the same, the first ones had .305" lobe lift, second series .315" (not many of these were made) and the third series had .339". The .339's also had about 5* more duration and make a great touring cam.

Be sure the intake manifold does not touch the header, or you will have a vacuum leak.

If using stock lifters on an OHV engine, you have to machine the top of them to accept the push rod. I've done this and they work great. BTW, B lifters have a larger diameter base than A lifters, a good thing on a performance cam.

The larger base is important, especially on a performance cam. The Burtz cm is great for touring, a bigger carb will help too.

Whatever made you think of that???

I wouldn't run 140, if you don't like 85-140, use 85-90. Thinner oils reach all parts quicker than 140, and is probably more available.

You've tried everything that normally causes a miss, the only thing that comes to my mind is valve spring pressure, which is more difficult to measure and cure, good luck! Timing won't cause a miss, neither will lack of fuel.